From his description, I wouldn't have thought a Dremel tool would fit in there.

He talked about having the pliers held with one hand and the other hand yanking the hose stub, if I read it right. So if he had one whole hand in there he should be able to reach it with a Dremel. It doesn't have to be held at the axis of the hose, it can be 90 degrees to it, especially if he has one of the Dremel cutoff wheels. Failing that, the Sawzall should do it with a fine toothed or diamond abrasive blade, approaching at the same angle. I wouldn't recommend an axe or 12 gage.

I think he was leaning toward the 12 gauge there before the Dremel suggestion.

Actually, I think he was close to using TNT.

I would have stuck a for sale sign on it. "As is."

So, so close.

Except for the whole three to four hour commute each way if you're not driving a car.

well ... ????

I would have suggested a slightly less destructive approach; grasp one ear of the offending clamp and drag it around the barb until you can access both ears more easily. It will be tight, but should rotate around the barb if you can get a good grip with vise grips or similar tool.

I got the impression he could only reach at one angle, no room to swing. :confused:

catching up... I promise to wrap up that story later.

IN TODAY'S NEWS:

My friend, T, has a 2001 Honda CR-V, 4wd, manual transmission, and the clutch is gone. He's a hazard to navigation. I wanted to back the car into my driveway, he had to PUSH from the front while I drove. I can't wait to see the pressure plate.

Anyhow, we started last night after work, and we have the car up on jackstands, wheels off, some cables disconnected and we stopped when it became clear that a five dollar crow's foot in 19mm would save, well, save having to cut the wires from his backup switch on the transaxle. You know how some fasteners let you get a wrench on them but then expect you to apply torque by magic? This is one of them.

Anyhow, it was a good stopping point. And this morning, we're starting at the parts store. There are some pictures (partly as breadcrumbs for the way home), and I'll share them with you too. Should be pretty straightforward.

Famous last words.

Famous last words indeed.

JFC.

We're now working weeknights to get it done by this weekend, cause I'm in the doghouse. Every weekend day and part of the nights has been spent mostly under this goddamn car.

I've just changed back into my mechanic's costume for tonight's performance.

Boy did I underestimate the complexity of this task, the tenacity of the fasteners on this vehicle. My regret level is approaching my aggravation level.

Never underestimate Jap Claptrap.

NOW you tell me....

Specific question. I got the transaxle in last night for the second time, including the bearing and fork... Oops. Anyhow, I can't get the two very large transaxle to mount bolts started. I've moved the transaxle up and down and wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle, yeah!... Nuffin. Can't start them by fingers. The bolts starting threads are slightly tapered, not just squared off, in some nod toward letting the bolt draw the hole over to it. But there is no way in hell the bolt will scootch over the transaxle to line up with the hole in the mount. No way. So I have to have the holes already aligned. Which I have done as well as I can do / see. But they're not starting.

I can only think to use my impact driver and a socket to simultaneously apply force and torque.
I'm really really fearful of fucking up the threads. Not on the one dollar steel bolt, but on the aluminum transaxle.

Any suggestions?

Please?

Can you use a longer SAME THREADED bolt on one side to get the OTHER one going? Then back out the first and replace with the correct one?
S'all I got.

No, it's a blind hole, not a through hole.

Have you tried using a drift punch to get it aligned? Once you have it aligned how are you holding it firm while you screw in the bolt? I'm assuming you've threaded the bolt into the hole with the unit free from the other pieces it aligns with. Yes I know it's the hole it came out of, but has it been back in since then?
The bolt has a lead on it (slightly tapered threads) so it will center on the hole as long as nothing else is pushing the bolt off center or making it try to enter at the wrong angle.

Oh, and a longer bolt with the same thread? Cut the head off that thing, then with it screwed in slide everything together, clamp that sumbitch so it can't move and replace it with your bolt.