[xoxoxoBruce]

Damn, that's hard to believe. Even if the added water weight caused it to rip off, to leave no evidence of attachment points is unbelievable.

•Think Permanent: Climbing vines can be very difficult to remove later, so it’s best to consider them as a permanent installation. If you’re worried about your brickwork needing future repairs, you may not want to cover it with self-adhering vines like ivy and climbing hydrangea. Also consider your home’s resale value before planting, as vines may or may not be attractive to future buyers.
•Consider Less-Aggressive Vines: Rather than planting English ivy, whose aerial rootlets not only attach themselves to the brick but can find their way into cracks, consider friendlier vines that have less tendency to cause damage. Boston ivy and Virginia creeper are popular choices for older buildings, since their adhesive suckers don’t attach quite as aggressively as English ivy.

Maybe it's some pussy Ivy.
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Here's a better one...

English ivy (Hedera helix L.) is able to grow on vertical substrates such as trees, rocks and house plaster, thereby attaching so firmly to the surface that when removed by force typically whole pieces of the climbing substrate are torn off. The structural details of the attachment process are not yet entirely understood. We studied the attachment process of English ivy in detail and suggest a four-phase process to describe the attachment strategy: (i) initial physical contact, (ii) form closure of the root with the substrate, (iii) chemical adhesion, and (iv) shape changes of the root hairs and form-closure with the substrate. These four phases and their variations play an important role in the attachment to differently structured surfaces. We demonstrate that, in English ivy, different mechanisms work together to allow the plant's attachment to various climbing substrates and reveal the importance of micro-fibril orientation in the root hairs for the attachment based on structural changes at the subcellular level.

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