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Old 05-27-2007, 03:47 AM   #109
Urbane Guerrilla
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 6,674
If You Know Jack... Aubrey, That Is

Wednesday, May 31, 2006

Intermediate Eater: Keep your crew smiling and full with these nautical nibbles

By JOHN OWEN
SPECIAL TO THE P-I

Do you have a favorite recipe for Boiled Baby?

Or maybe your tastes run more toward Dog's Body or Soused Hog's Face. If so, you may want to obtain a copy of "Lobscouse and Spotted Dog." This book was recommended to me by reader Gary L. Burk after I made reference to Horatio Hornblower in a recent "Intermediate Eater" column. Burk has read all of the Hornblower novels and graduated to the works of Patrick O'Brian, author of "Master and Commander" and other nautical classics.

O'Brian has a devoted following, including a mother-daughter sailing team from Long Island who researched all the sailor's fare mentioned in the books. Before I put you off your feed I should point out that Boiled Baby is actually a pudding that the ship's cook wrapped in white swaddling cloth and immersed in boiling water. Dog's Body was a variety of pease pudding. As for Soused Hog's Face, well, all I can say is that what you see is what you get. And it ain't pretty. If a pig runs into my galley while we're cruising the Mediterranean, I think my crew might prefer:


SOUSED TENDERLOIN
SERVES 4

* 1 pork tenderloin (about 1 1/2 pounds)
* 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
* Salt
* 1 tablespoon olive oil
* 1/2 cup red wine
* 1/2 cup chicken broth
* Zest of one lemon
* 8 kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
* Rosemary sprigs

Roll the tenderloin in rosemary, then sprinkle with salt. Brown on all sides in hot oil, about 5 minutes total. Remove to a baking pan and bake at 425 degrees for 12 minutes, or until internal temperature is 155 degrees.

While the meat is cooking, simmer the red wine and chicken broth in a small saucepan for about 5 minutes. Add the lemon zest and olives.

Cut the loin into 1/3 -inch slices. Place on a platter, garnish with rosemary sprigs and pass the sauce around to slop over the meat.

The British tar in that era was allotted a gallon of beer a day. The wine-swigging officers probably preferred their beer included in:


TAR STEW
SERVES 4

* 2 pounds stew beef hunks
* 2 tablespoons butter
* 2 tablespoons olive oil
* 3 large onions, thinly sliced
* 1 tablespoon flour
* 2 tablespoons brandy
* 1 cup beer
* 1/2 cup beef broth
* 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
* Salt
* Pepper
* 2 tablespoons sour cream
* 1 teaspoon dried dill weed

Beat butter and oil in a heavy skillet. Add beef hunks in batches, browning on all sides. When all the meat is browned, transfer to an oven casserole.

Toss the onions into the skillet (adding more oil if needed) and cook over low heat until soft and golden. Sprinkle with flour, then add to the casserole.

Add to the casserole the brandy, beer, broth and allspice. Shove the casserole into a 350-degree oven and let it simmer until tender, maybe 1 1/2 or 2 hours. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Finally, stir into the stew the sour cream and dill weed.

Then you can go up on deck with a full stomach to see if the ship needs steering.
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John Owen writes "The Intermediate Eater" weekly. Contact him by e-mail at ieater@verizon.net.
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