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Old 05-12-2016, 09:56 AM   #136
glatt
 
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Location: Arlington, VA
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I'm getting ready to sell my cousin's 2012 Ford Focus.

Looking for advice in how to go about selling it.

First of all, he has been in one or two accidents with it, and had it repaired through insurance at legitimate body shops that would report that shit to Carfax. I don't know the severity of those accidents, but don't see any visible problems with the car. It looks pretty good, but has a toothpaste or something stain on the passenger seat. I should try to clean that.

The car currently doesn't run. Two issues: He had been trying to start it and wasn't able to because the key would turn in the ignition without the starter even engaging, and instead the alarm would go off. Some Ford bullshit electrical problem. And secondly, I disconnected the battery to spare the neighbors the alarm sound every time he tried this, and also to ensure he would never be able to get the car started because he was a menace on the road.

So it needs a tow to the dealership to get those two things fixed. Battery is easy, but I figure it should wait until it's at the dealer so it won't be honking up the neighborhood.

On the plus side, it should have low miles (Not sure because the battery is disconnected and I can't read the odometer.) And he had purchased the extended service plan, and it has a couple years left on that plan, and the plan will transfer to the new owner.

My wife contacted the dealer and some guy responded that he wanted the VIN and some pictures so he could make us an offer. I appreciate her calling the dealer, but I don't know if he's a repair guy or a salesman.

Is it foolish to talk to a salesman before the car is even running?

Should I get it repaired and then try to sell it, or should I just deal with this salesman and sell it as is?

Is a car automatically considered "rough" even if it looks OK but was in a previous accident?
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:29 AM   #137
monster
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aaaaaaand..... we're at it again. We need a third car. Beest has found one he likes. inventory says it exists.... dealers say #bullshitbullshitbullshithowaboutthisusedoneweredesperatetooffloadinsteaditsamuchbetterdealhonestlybullshitbullshit
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:30 AM   #138
monster
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sigh
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:48 AM   #139
xoxoxoBruce
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Tell them no, you want what you want and you'll have to buy it online. That should bring them around.
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Old 05-12-2016, 11:10 AM   #140
glatt
 
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Wanna buy a Ford Focus?
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Old 05-12-2016, 11:51 AM   #141
monster
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Not that one!
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Old 05-12-2016, 12:13 PM   #142
lumberjim
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Glatt, get the repairs done under warranty first. Dealers will give you wholesale, but it's quick.

Take it to a different ford dealer and get a buy figure. I can get you the auction value if you get me the info. I'll need the actual miles and options. So once it's fixed give me a call.
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Last edited by lumberjim; 05-12-2016 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:27 PM   #143
monster
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I reckon if there was a Cellar currency (?the monkey, the Deadhobo, the tw....?) The image of sir Jim of Lumber would be on one of the bills. The biggest one, of course, to fit that fivehead on.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:50 PM   #144
lumberjim
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I'll settle for nothing less than the $50.

UT should be on the 100. Founder

Bruce on the single.
Most in circulation

Tw on the 2 because duh

I'll leave some for you to do ...
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Old 05-16-2016, 07:30 PM   #145
Beest
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buying another car to satisfy the ever growing number of drivers in the family, I'm zeroing in on a Mazda 3 (isport, manua hatchback,with preferred package, in red)
zoom zoom


So questions, mostly for Jim I guess:
Through AAA you can get a certified true car value, 8% below msrp on mazdas ( different on different vehicles), no negotiating, they are contracted to this price. There is also 0% financing on 60 months, and $1000 from the manufacturer.
Is this just a scheme, could we try and get better than this?
We're not intending to put any money down, we can use that cash for other things, but would that help in some way besides lowering the price and payments.

We don't have a trade-in since we are expanding our garage, it's been a devil of a job getting a car at all since nobody stocks manuals. The hatchback mazdas sell as soon as they come in, so the dealer isn't hurting to shift them, we are probably going to have to order.
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Old 05-16-2016, 07:54 PM   #146
Beest
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also, I made my initial contacts ( I've looked at Subaru and Honda too) through websites, I'm guessing they give internet sales to the noobs/junior sales people from the ones I have encountered.
Are customers who approach through the internet more troublesome/flaky/more work ?
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:44 PM   #147
xoxoxoBruce
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I read salesmen didn't like them because they were more informed and sometimes misinformed but convinced they're right be cause they read/misread it on the internet.
Red cars have higher resale value, more accidents, gather more tickets, and induce more road rage in others. There a numerous studies to back this up so don't let Monster drive this one.
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:12 AM   #148
lumberjim
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TrueCar™ is a very good way to get a low price without spending days working dealers against each other. We hate it, but you have to do it or you won't get any leads. The trade is where we try to make up for it. You have no trade. You may not be able to get the 0% AND the rebate... but you might... Nissan has 0% AND $500 on some cars... or $500 AND $2000... You could find that out over the phone before you go.

There's hardly any mark up on new cars. Get GAP, but don't pay more than $500 for it. Extended warranty is your call, just be sure you get a fair price on that too. I'd try to stay under $400 per year of additional coverage as a rule. ( < $1200 for a 6 year)
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Old 05-17-2016, 11:33 AM   #149
Beest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumberjim View Post
TrueCar™ is a very good way to get a low price without spending days working dealers against each other. We hate it, but you have to do it or you won't get any leads. The trade is where we try to make up for it. You have no trade. You may not be able to get the 0% AND the rebate... but you might... Nissan has 0% AND $500 on some cars... or $500 AND $2000... You could find that out over the phone before you go.

There's hardly any mark up on new cars. Get GAP, but don't pay more than $500 for it. Extended warranty is your call, just be sure you get a fair price on that too. I'd try to stay under $400 per year of additional coverage as a rule. ( < $1200 for a 6 year)
Thanks Jim, solid info, I've been in and done test drives and talked to the sales person I think the incentives are a lock.
I talked to my insurance guy about GAP, said much the same as you. Subaru tried to add in GAP at $800 I think, and extra coating paint protection, and extra upholstery protection, and prepaid servicing, no actual undercoating though.

True car has steered me to contact certain dealers rather than others, i have lot's of choice in a big metropolitan area, so I guess it is working for them in that way.
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Old 05-17-2016, 12:16 PM   #150
lumberjim
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Good luck, and pics or it never happened!
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