No... you carry a shovel and salt in your car, and she wears a sexy outfit in hers. :haha:

Or call me, I'll pull ya out....

I'll help... skimpy outfit n all

Once you lose traction, winter tires aren't worth any more than regular all-season tires. Learning how to control yourself into and out of a slide is much more important than winter tires. Knowing how to properly use downshifting, over and under steering, etc. has kept my little front wheel drive car with cheap all-season radials on the road and out of trouble every winter. I mess around in parking lots as soon as the snow falls to freshen up the skillz.

I got new tires recently -- at Costco. Surprisingly affordable. If you're a member & need tires, check them out.

Since you are about to hit the end of your warranty period, get some strong documentation from an independent mechanical inspector to prove that this problem has developed and existed within the warranty period. Then, if the manufacturer tries to weasel out by pointing to your odometer, you can slap them with the paper trail.

What manufacturer and model tires? Why do you (he) know the tires are not defective? How do you know shocks are good (since struts must never fail)? Bent axle on a front wheel drive car? Where did that come from?

Scalloping tires are most often due to bad struts.

What kind of noise? Does the steering wheels shift right-left or just the car goes up and down?

If not this and not that, they the reason why must also be provided. Based upon what was posted, everything remains on the list of suspects because 'reasons why' are not provided.

Of course, there is always Car Talk on PBS. I suspect they would have fun with scallops.

I do same. This is especially important to learn how a new car responds or how new tires react. One of the most critical tools for maintaining control especially on ice is that lever parking brake. Using that brake is also useful for steering when control is threatened.

The little chinese guy in the engine is getting tired. Trade it in quick.

I did not know the Koreans use imported parts.

I ran this past my mechanic and we're both with LJ and Bruce. Most likely CV's. Doesn't take much wear to create an imbalance.
Mechanics sugestion was to put in a decent sub woofer, turn up the stezza and drive until catastrophic failure.

:driving:

She'll be right, mate, no wuckaz! :beer:

CVs create noise mostly when the wheel is turned long before making that noise in straightaway travel.

Just as likely is a bad bearing - a problem even created when a mechanic foolishly removes the rotors to turn them down during a brake job. These bearing are more difficult to properly seat. Some mechanics then make the problem worse by performing a wheel alignment to correct a problem created by loose bearings.

Just another 'just as likely' possibility due to insufficient information and a type of failure that many mechanics would not see.

The current tires are Dunlop signature all season radials. While the problem started when I got these tires at around 84k miles, it was likely coincidental since the problem remained when we swapped to snows which were Nokian hakkapeliita (sp?) We don't know the tires are not defective, they may be, but it seems odd that all four would be bad. We had a road force balance doen and while the machine did not indicate a tire or rim problem, the tech said he still suspected the tires.

I have no idea if the shocks are still good, the dealership mech said the front end looked good to him, would he be able to tell if the shocks/struts were bad by driving and inspecting the vehicle? Since I assume they are consumable parts and not part of the drive train, I imagine he'd be happy to sell them to me. What are the symptoms of bad shocks/struts? (I've heard scalloping tires, but no one thought that was the case with my tires. Who knows?)

Bent axle? that was BrianR.
Noise? who said anything about noise? There is no noise, just a vibration which has now extended from 20-30mph to 20-45mph. The steering wheel judders back and forth in a small arc. The car doesn't bounce like a car with bad shocks does. It handles nicely with the exception of the vibration.

A new development is that when you come to a stop and make a left turn after complete the turn and you straighten out the vibration is noticibly lessened. After making a right turn it is noticibly worse.

We'll see what happens tomoorow.

As bullitt points out "Once you lose traction..." I find that point comes a little later with good snows. Then again, you never know how fast you can corner until you wipe out.

I had a similar thing with my car. After extensive research testing and trial and error to eliminate variables and isolate specific potential causes... It was the tires. I replaced them and all was well. Course I sold it 6 months later - just in case.