I also am unused to classical guitars having bridge pins. That's typically a folk style guitar, ditto on the pick guard. My classical has the type of bridge in Ibram's picture.

The neck also looks more folk-like. A classical neck is wider, and I'm not used to the pearlized insets ... my classical guitar does have some guide marks, but they are on the side of the neck, not on the fretboard. Does that guitar have the steel reinforcing rod in the neck allowing you to use steel strings? Another mark that it's a folk, not a classical. And, finally, is there a pin on the bottom to attach a strap? My classical only has one because I had it added when I was a kid.

I'd never heard of a 'Folk Guitar' per se.... but they seem to be regular acoustic guitars with smaller bodies, strung with classical style strings to make finger picking easier.

I can make out the word Arbor inside there, lola.. is that the manufacturer? I found AN Arbor Guitar website, but they don't appear to make acoustic guitars at this point, and the logo is different from what I see there

I've never heard of a guitar with a head, neck, and bridge like that being strung with nylon strings.
Make SURE that it's supposed to have nylon strings, or the tension on the neck will be off, which will warp and detune your neck.

folk = non-classical acoustic

right, but there are many sub categories. I have a Martin d28 or 37 or something.... damn, i can never remember. but it's shallower than my other two, lighter, and LOUDER.

My dad used to have a 69 Gibson Jumbo. HUGE big guitar. that one there looks like it might be a shade smaller than a regular guitar. What I found on 'Folk Guitars' said they were smaller, sometimes 3/4 necks. SHorter neck = looser strings = more bending notes.

My little backpacker guitar is a 3/4 neck, and I really like that aspect of it. Might be why it came with nylon strings too, Ib.

Yes, it is an Arbor guitar. This guitar was bought in the early 80's so perhaps it might be the same company. They just no longer make this type of guitar. To be frank, I don't even know what kind of guitar it is. It is also a possibility someone switched out the orginal strings and put the nylon strings in. The extra pack of strings I see in the case has thin steel strings for the strings first 3 or 2 strings. Sorry dont remember names. Damn...virus alert popped up. will continue later.

That and the 12th fret on a classical guitar is at the top of the body. I am sure this guitar came with steel strings.

I had this problem myself, all I did was switch that pin with the one on the next biggest string and luckily it worked.

I'm experimenting with a symmetrical drum setup. Toms start at 8" in the middle and proceed in diameter, downward and alternating from left to right (for example, classic "descending fills" can start in the middle and can go in either direction). Each side of the kit has a set of cymbals of equivalent size and function, in the same relative positions.

The main asymmetry is the fact that only my left foot conrols a hi-hat (whereas both feet can play a bass drum note) but I am not $300 interested in correcting that--I do have a mirror-image fixed hi-hat on the right side.

What I am finding is that I have weakness or clumsiness in certain ranges of motion, and I am attacking those areas.

[/non sequitur]

but interesting! Pic?

Yes, actually.

#1: The symmetrical setup. This is mainly made possible by my main hi-hat being cable-controlled (a remote hi-hat allows the pedal placement to be independant of where the actual cymbals are located). I'm using a 12-inch "power depth" rack tom (from the 1980s) as my left-side "floor" tom.

#2: The symmetrical setup, top (diagrammatic) view.

#3: I was quite proud of this symmetrical hardware configuration. Note that the tom-mounting hardware hangs off the back of the rack, and is arranged in an an arc--allowing the snare drum to be surrounded by toms. I like this kind of placement because the drums are easy to reach.

#4: Last picture is a fairly standard setup with the same drums. Using a 16-inch floor tom here, and a Sabian "Rocktagon" as the ride cymbal.

As a non-drummer, the top arrangement looks much more intuitive and easier to play.

I learned from the most -symmetrical setup that moving the hihats into such an odd and far away position opened up some new playing ideas and approaches. I'm working on a hybrid between the two, but not yet ready to commit to the exact-middle hihat aka Bill Bruford, Danny Carey.

I also learned that having an 8" tom in primary, up-front position is annoying as hell. Kind of one-dimensional, whereas there are about 100 other things I can get out of a 10" in that position.




Basically, all of this is coming from the fact that I am now using a hardware rack, and "floating" instruments over the bass drum. This opens up a whole new approach to setup. I'm in a discovery phase. Fun stuff!

I redid my computer (virus attack) a few days ago but never came back to this thread to thank everyone for your advices. I will buy a new set of strings. My former music teacher (the one who taught me guitar) was probably the one who changed my strings. I'm sure of this because he was the one who picked out my guitar for me. I'm sure not why he did that. Perhaps because nylon strings hurt less than steel strings? Hihi....Anyways.....Thanks again for everyone's expertise. I'm glad to see we have another music question going on. :)

You might need to replace the peg that holds the string in.

I suggest you take the guitar into a guitar/instrument shop and get their advice.