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That pex there is Sharkbite brand. Srsly!
If the kitchen sink had H and C reversed, it would match the bathroom sink. I just have to re-learn that C stands for Calescent and the H stands for Hyperborean. |
If you use the sharkbite couplers, make sure to get a soft rag and wipe the pex clean where you cut it. You don't want any foreign gunk messing up the seal at the sharkbite coupler or it's likely to drip into that pool of water in the basement. ;)
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C stands for Caliente!
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an alternative to consider could be, under the sink swap the pipes between the shut of valve and the tap, hopefully there is enough slack in the connection to the dishwasher to stretch the extra couple of inches. You're probably not going to be lucky enough that the hard pipe on the hot will be right length to fit neatly on the cold, so you would have to buy a flexible hose, as has been added on the cold side.
This way you would preserve the hot/cold orientation of the taps. In the UK dishwashers are cold fill as standard, the cycle takes a lot longer, in the manula it states that you canmak it hot fill for shorter cycle time, but wash won't be as good. UK dishwashers also have a resorvoir you have to fill with softening salt. When installing a US dishwasher I remember it saying cold fill was an option, it should heat the water, but it takes longer. |
I have no experience with the PEX stuff, listen to the other people. However, if you *are* making a cut, there's no reason you can't **add** length to the pex pipes so that stuff reaches.
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http://cellar.org/2014/redblufixed1.jpg
Aw man, that was so easy! Just turn off the main water supply, let the pipes empty, cut the pex pipe with the $15 tool, slam the Sharkbite connectors on the swapped pipes, and turn the water back on. Bam! It took 5 minutes, and 4 of that was just getting up the nerve to turn off the water. http://cellar.org/2014/redblufixed2.jpg Now all I need is for this ancient master shut-off valve to stop dripping at a rate of 4 drops per second. Uh. Huh. What was that about sleeping dogs? |
Excellent!
A few extra drops of water in that wet basement will be no big deal. And it will eventually stop dripping. |
Yeah the dishwarsher is warshing right now. It's beautiful.
Thanks for your help glatt and everyone! |
Did you order the stuff over the internet, or find it locally?
I'm wondering how easy it is to get your hands on PEX stuff these days. They were restricting it last time I got some years ago, and I had to pretend I was a plumber when I ordered it online. |
did you notice that there are copper rings around the pex at the end of the pipes you left? There are none on your new stuff. Are the connectors you used different? I remember doing my house over in pex, and my brother used a crimping tool to tightne copper bands after the joint was assembled.
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It was all Home Depot. It sure looks like you can walk right in and buy 100ft of 1/2" pex. With this stuff, and the sharkbite, and now they have kits to fit in with various plumbing fixtures... things may be just too easy. It's like plumbing LEGO.
http://cellar.org/2014/complicatedpex.jpg |
oh. yes... they are different. that's cool. they work with copper and cpvc too. just jam it in there an inch, and it clamps down permanently. no collar, no crimping tool.
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Our under sink water filter uses those jam it in pex fittings. It's amazing how easy they are. The only way to goof up is to not cut the pex tubing square or not push it in hard enough, but you'll know right away if you make either mistake.
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There is a Sharkbite removal tool that costs about $3. Get several in various sizes. Handy to have.
I used PEX to plumb in a 20 gallon water heater in my travel trailer. Those fittings were great, except for being about $15-$20 each! PEX is super-easy to work with if you follow a few basic rules outlined above. Most new construction is PEX nowadays unless it is over three stories or high pressure. |
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