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Havana
---- Time to move on to our trip to Havana. OK, it was a tourist trip like in any other country, and a guide anywhere isn't going to take you to see the black spots and slums, so we were being shown the sort of sites that any tourist might expect to be shown when using a dedicated tour operator. That said, we still witnessed some eye-opening parts of Cuban life. Not much that I captured on camera, but enough I think to give a flavour. First and foremost our guide was as well-informed as any I've come across in any country. She knew her history and made the event both informative and interesting. She wasn't afraid to answer delving questions about the way of life in the country, but I accept that she may have edged towards being one of those conditioned to accepting the way of life more than wanting to effect radical change - one of several we met who had reservations about change and the negative effects it could just as well bring. We took just a day trip classed as showing historic Havana, so it was Hemingway bars, original architecture and so on in the old town and echoes of the revolution and post 60’s Cuba when we moved across city towards what would once have been the rich area. But to start with old Havana and a few pictures from the roof terrace of the Ambos Mundos hotel (a Hemingway favourite) that shows the rooftops of how much of Havana really is now – in decay. |
It's been a long day - so more tomorrow....
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Very cool images CF.
LOVE the blue of that water. Thanks for the rear shots of your wife too. :) |
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That's better - a good nine hours shut-eye. Batteries recharged - so on to more about Havana. Oh, I meant to mention - we chose this day to go because rain was forecast, and the weather performed as expected. Hence the clouds and damp everywhere. This time of year the weather can be changeable. We had 4 good days (75 t0 80 deg F) and 3 mixed ones, but the resort goes out of its way to offer alternative activities if and when the beach becomes a questionable choice - like a couple of fashion shows with very up-to-the minute designs in crocheted dresses, tops and skirts (Sheila/Phtharnag's grandmother would have been proud!) and, yes, my wife did manage to buy up half the stock (well, it certainly seemed that way!)
Back to Havana. At street level in old town, it's quite a mix. Clearly the government is working to clean up this part of town. Many buildings have had a face-lift with repairs to crumbling facades, fresh coats of paint and the introduction of brighter colours as well. A few photos to follow with limited commentary. The first two below show examples of the mix I have mentioned above - notice the difference between the restored old house in the second picture (an example of early Cuban architecture from the 18th century) and the state of the side wall of the adjoining building: |
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Next a couple of pictures of a mural wall that contains portraits of leading figures from pre-revolution Cuba. Not sure how old this 'picture' is (not very, I suspect), but it is a mirror image of the old (looking to be in the process of being restored) building opposite:
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... and here is that building opposite - the lady in the foreground wearing what happens to be a 1980's design Marks and Spencer cotton jumper with shawl design pattern to the top (so those clothes do get through to the people of Cuba) was our guide:
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A couple more photos of the colourful side of old Havana - the 'park' (there are quite a few of these little green areas a dotted around the city) with a 'faceless' mural in the background, and pictures for sale (yes, I know, all very touristy!) in an area that resembles, oh so slightly, the Covent Garden area of London:
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A picture of the main square, 'Plaza del Catedral', in that 'Covent Garden' area (sorry, the wife got in the way again!) and of the young girl who is celebrating her teenage 15 years in customary traditional dress:
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Clearly a tourist area, but just off the square in a side street come alley, we stumbled upon this spiral staircase leading up to an apartment - look closely - the stair rail is actually made from old oil drums!:
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So that was old Havana, in a nutshell. We went for lunch after this into the old embassy district to a restaurant that would have been grand in pre-revolution days, and although it still retained a lot of its earlier charm it clearly had suffered the slow decay that post-revolution Cuba created. No pictures I'm sorry to say.
Our next stop on our visit was an unexpected one, and caused by taking a tour on a Sunday no doubt. Normally we would have been treated to the Cigar Factory, but as this was closed we went to.... a cemetery! Jusr shows how quickly you turn into the equivalent of a Japanese tourist , prepared to photofraph anything! I'll only show one picture here though as it involves a local myth come legend. The grave is that of a mother who died on giving berth to her still-born baby. Both were buried in the same grave, the baby being placed between the mother's legs as was customary (I guess we can take it that in days gone by with no medical assistance, this sort of disaster was probably more frequent than we would like to believe). The custom of burial in Cuba, requires the body to be buried for a two-year period in the primary grave after which the body is transferred to a less grand but more accepted family grave. The story goes that when this grave was later opened for the transferral, the baby was no longer between its mother's legs, but had moved to lie across her breast (as is depicted in the statue behind the grave). Maybe the baby wasn't dead when it was buried and moved of its own accord, but the grave has taken on a significance for the people and is seen as a place to honour. Anyone/family who has problems with pregnancy or childberth will lay flowers on this grave and pray for help to overcome their problem. It is the only grave in the cemetery that is always adorned with fresh flowers as a result... |
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Next in this section, the Capitol building - Havana's replica of the White House - no further description needed:
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One extra photo of the building:
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Lastly, the trip involved a visit to Revolution Square. A bleak place. We mentioned to our guide how this resembled Tiananmen Square in China. An interesting revelation ensued - she had never heard of Tiananmen Square - an indication that while Cubans receive an excellent education, the extent of their knowledge about the outside world is heavily controlled.
Shots of the 'Che Guevara' hotel and the Revolution Tower which flanked the square: |
As ever, I wish that I had taken more pictures to show more of Havana life, but I hope these convey some of it. If you want more then I have discovered a very good picture site on the web here and also here. Lots, lots more to see, for those who are interested.
One more section to follow - time probably for some discussion and comments first.... |
I love the Plaza del Catedral, the scale of the building is charming. Did you get inside?
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