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Bald spot = tire gone. Getting out of balance too. Don't try and push it, particularly if you expect rain. The tread pattern is there to help keep your car from hydroplaning; it gives water on the road someplace to go as your tires pass over it. If you hydroplane, you have no directional control. You're a hockey puck until your speed drops enough for the water under your tires to escape again and let your rubber touch the road.
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Fortunately, not much rain in my part of the country. I'm going to do my research, locate a good tire I want, and buy 4 new. fuck it.
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Don't dally, I heard tires are going to jump 35% soon.
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good to know
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Why is the check engine light on and what can I do to correct the situation? I'll preemptively ignore all the black tape and pull the plug suggestions; just trying to save you some time. :) TIA. |
Open the hood and see if the engine is still there.
In some cars the check engine light comes on at specific mileage intervals. |
It takes 8 gallons of oil to make a tire. Or the human head weighs 8 pounds. Something about 8...
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*sigh*
Yeah. I know. I have two diagnostic readers, for cars we no longer own. I don't have one for the Discovery (yet). I know how they work, I know what they can reveal. I also know that a low urgency warning like this (compared to the 710 light or the temp gauge) probably means that some sensor has failed to check in within the expected tolerances. Which sensor? Who knows. It recently passed the emissions test. I checked the fluids, which needed topping off, but were not in the danger zone. I'm just weary that something else needs fixing. And this something is important, since it's our wheels to work. As for looking up the codes after I read them, I expect either the manual with the reader, or the factory shop manual (2 inches thick, ~$75) or the intarwebz will provide that tidbit. Then, after all that, I'll need to get the widget and install it. Or them. Or, break my second best screwdriver prying out the old one, smash my knuckles, cuss and smack my head and cuss some more. Then get another specialized tool, hope I haven't marred the socket for the thingy, install it at last, and find out the light remains illuminated. Then take my box of parts, and my bruised vehicle down to the local Land Rover mechanic (to whom I still owe money), leaving behind the scorched and smoking ruins of my mechanical pride and throw myself on the mercy of the garage. "Yeah, I need it by Monday. No, I don't have any more hundred dollar bills, why? Yes, I know where the bus stop is." I'm not looking forward to that conversation. Bitter much? Not really. I'm just not recharged after my recent doubleheader with the fridge and the dryer. Shit, the washer was supposed to be next anyway. |
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is this meant to be a dig at me because I asked for help?
you big meanie! |
If you car didn't just pass 30,000 or 60,000 or whatever miles as HLJ was saying, You can access the "on-board computer" yourself. All you need is a regular screwdriver and you can get the code. It will be a series of short and long flashes like morse code. If you have the Haynes manual for the car it explains what the code is and means. Actually, that info is probably online now too - I'm just too lazy to look it up. I've did it a lot with my previous car. Saved a lot of money when it turned out to be something really simple to fix.
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In my Honda, the light came on at 30,000 miles, and it's coming on now at 45,000 miles. It begins with just a few seconds of flashing when the car is started, then stays on longer as the mileage approaches the landmark.
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Big meanie indeed. Quotha!* * Look it up. |
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