looking good, HMonkey, looking good.

Here you go. Sorry I didn't get it to you until the next morning. :)

Oh, ok. you're talking about end grain vs flat grain.
I thought you meant both pieces had to have the grain running parallel rather than across the other. My bad.:blush:

Hmm. You were right the first time - I was talking about the grain running parallel rather than across the other. I guess I didn't read that article closely enough. I haven't found any article to support it, though, so maybe it's not true. One possibility is that the expansion and contraction in different directions could hurt the joint, but that'a certainly not an issue at the size of my blocks.

Maybe I just wasted a bit of effort. Oh, well.

We put the foot up against the blocks, then stuck a pencil through the holes, to mark it. Then we drilled the holes and sunk some threaded inserts, as with the back.

Here it is attached.

Back to the shelf peg holes. Once I used the jig to put holes up and down each side, I put two brass inserts halfway into two holes, and propped the jig against them. I then marked the approximate location of the hole through the jig.

With another brass insert on the opposite side, I laid a ruler between them, and marked the top...

...and bottom.

Using those markings, and the original two brass inserts, I clamped down the jig, and drilled eight holes down the middle.

So here are the uprights, with the holes drilled. The middle row of holes are for a half shelf at the top, to make a tiered place for paperbacks.

Here is the middle foot. From the last picture, tongues on the bottom of the middle upright go through slots in the bottom board. The two boards on this foot clamp around each side of the tongues, and the bolts go through the holes, to pull it tight. These bolts are obviously too long. I need to get some shorter ones.

Curses!
On my first board, I was not using the drilling jig properly, and there was some drift. By some, I mean a lot. So I had to fill in and redrill the holes. Luckily, when I put the brass sleeves in, they will cover up most of the evidence.

Anyway, to start off, I put masking tape over the rows of holes at the point where things started going wrong, and then cut out the holes with an exacto knife. This was to prevent glue from getting onto the good surface, and preventing the oil (later) from soaking in.

Next, I cut a ton of pegs from some dowels we had lying about. To get the length, I drilled some holes in a scrap board, stuck the dowels in, and cut them off with a scroll saw.

With the pegs cut, I put glue in the holes and pushed the pegs down into the holes with a pencil.

Once the glue had gotten very tacky (but not dry), I pulled the tape up over the pegs. This way, the glue doesn't dry with the tape stuck under it.

Also in this picture, you can see the scrap wood I used to test this technique.