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Finishes are a mystery to me. I bet there is a finishing bible out there...
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Interesting! I'd never heard of that.
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His name was Homer Formby. Attachment 66485 |
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I still have it. |
Little known fact: shellac is secreted by the back end of the female lac beetle
Little known gross fact: it's why Junior Mints are shiny |
Junior Mints GOOD!!!
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Yummm!
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Soo...
Lacquer is secreted by gay male lac beetles? |
Lacquer? I barely even know her!
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what shellacs in looks she makes up for in secretions
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https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...3&share_type=t If I were you I would get that paint out of the control cavity as well. Pick your paint solvent and use a small wire brush to get in it out.<br /><br />You have a couple of ways to do this:<br /><br />Wash the body thoroughly with mineral spirits and let dry for 3 days.<br />Get a can of vinyl sanding sealer. Some are great others not so much. DO NOT USE DEFT BRAND! Its never dries.<br />The best would be Behlen's sanding sealer for guitar:<br /><br />http://www.tdpri.com/attachments/h39...e1-jpg.585455/<br /><br />Next. let the sealer dry a day at least and sand to 320 grit.<br /><br />Now you have choice you can paint your color coat directly onto the sealer. Like Gibson does or prime the body Like Fender used to do.<br /><br />If I were you I would prime the body using white sandable primer. I use Dupli-color. It plays well with just about any acrylic lacquer paint.<br /><br />Both Fender and Gibson used acrylic Lacquer under their nitro clear coat which is more acrylic than nitro these days. :twisted:<br /><br />It can be found in just about any auto store. One can is all you need. It relatively cheap about $7.00 YMMV.<br /><br />http://www.tdpri.com/attachments/primer-jpg.585456/<br /><br />Let your primer dry a day at the least but longer is better and sand smooth to 320 grit. A couple of light passes with the sand paper is all you need to do. Any sand throughs cover again with left over primer.<br /><br />Now here is the most complicated part, sourcing your color coat:<br /><br />Most rattle can manufactures, (Duplicolor Perfect Match product line is what I have used) use acrylic lacquer for their touch up sprays.<br />The problem is most companies make paint for the most recent car colors used in the last 5 years and by and large lately they are mostly metallics. It looks like you are using a non metallic color paint. Very close to what Fender called "surf green".<br /><br />So your easiest choices are: 1) Change to a metallic and find something in the same shade or 2) Order a can of Surf Green from Reranch. I did a Sonic Blue Strat some years back and one can is all I needed.<br /><br />A more complicated way but will get you exactly what you want is to take a 3"x 3" color sample of your current spray and taking into an autobody paint supply, they will scan it and their computer will mix out a pint or whatever size you want. At some locations they will even load some of it into rattle cans for you but comparatively this is expensive and you will have much more material than you need for one body.<br /><br />Whatever choice you make the application of your color coat will be the same; 3 overlapping passes = 1 coat is the general rule depending on your technique. Let is gas out over a couple of days between each coat to be on the safe side.<br /><br />After your 2nd and, if needed, 3rd coat has dried completely you can now apply your clear coat.<br /><br />I strongly recommend you get Behlen's String Instrument Lacquer if you want nitro! It has more durable resins in it.<br /><br />One can maybe two cans should do it. They run about $13.00-$14.00 a can plus shipping.<br />Woodcrafters sells the sanding sealer and lacquer so order them together and save on the shipping charges.<br />I think Behlen's is also the retail line name for Mohawk finishes so you might want to check the Googles to source the product from Mohawk to save a few bucks.<br /><br />http://www.tdpri.com/attachments/149254-0-jpg.585477/<br /><br />Follow the rule of 3s for applying you clear coat. Maybe sand lightly your between your second and third coat of clear with 400 grit if you have some orange peel. Make sure to wipe all the dust from the body before applying the next coat.<br /><br />Time is your friend in all this !!! The more time you have between for all your coat applications to gas out the better chance you have for avoiding problems. |
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Ouch, I knew that, just didn't catch you were using enamel. My bad. :facepalm:
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I should have done better research on this part. I'm very impatient to assemble what I've created and this looks like a month long process minimum. I'm tempted to put it together as is and play it, then take it apart to paint it in the spring when conditions are more favorable for painting.
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Stain it, then paint over it in the spring.
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I feel your pain, bro. School of hard knocks.
But when God closes one door he opens another-- |
I have that stuff. Or something like it. Thing about that stuff is the edges. You need to keep it all from sliding off somehow. You could do very thin coats and build it up, or I was thinking of carving 1/2" deep reliefs in the areas where there are no cavities and filling them with epoxy resin. Heavy though. I might do like Digr said. Still mulling it over.
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Engraving, filled with epoxy, don't think I've ever seen that. Yeah, heavy though.
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I've got plans for the next guitar floating around in my head. The head stock as a flame to go with the flamed Maple neck:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d54df34eae.jpg
And a body like this, but done better: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e6d8a601d1.jpg |
I once repaired a nut on a bass that was actually pulled out of alignment by an offset headstock design. The pressure exerted by bass strings is way more than guitar strings, but still, I'd worry about how much responsibility is on the nut to handle that bend.
Maybe a locking nut... they don't do that on basses AFAIK... |
Your headstock design looks like a painter's palette.
Likey. |
Made a new short handle stick to use, and a taller rotisserie type mount so I can spin the body 360 while I apply finish.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9b93cdc930.jpg I decided to go with boiled linseed oil thinned with lacquer thinner, and some lacquer based pigment. I'll cover it with polyurethane gloss finish as a top coat. I tried a bunch of combinations of oil and lacquer and dye. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6a9d4441c0.jpg The linseed has a slight yellow cast, which helps with the color I want. About 7 parts white, 2 parts green and 1 part blue comes up pretty close. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e97180b467.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a8624a97da.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8dc640dd67.jpg I like it. |
Looking good, it's got character.
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Here's that epoxy resin
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fe006943ef.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1659aca622.jpg Very tricky to get it smooth with coat thin enough to use on a guitar. Maybe a telecaster because their tops are flat. |
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101, I know, but it bears repeating. |
It's ok, I've got them wadded up nice and tight and tucked under my box of sawdust next to the gas can.
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You're not just another pretty face. :headshake
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Cover it in fertilizer!!!
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Done work in half an hour, then to the shop! I'm going to run down the body with 0000 steel wool, then give it another coat of goo. The feedback I'm getting from the guitar finishing people leads me to thinking I might just quit with 3 coats of oil and skip the poly. Or just do one light coat and rub it in. The poly won't bond with the oil, they say. Why bother if you're Ok with satin finish, etc.
So we'll see how these next 2 coats go. |
Still drying, and it darkens as it does, but I'm digging this
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5b82415b99.jpg Closer. After some rubbing back: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...683db3ba27.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b5cdefb068.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eeec965402.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4e2bd201aa.jpg The color is correct in the last pic. Close ups come up green |
Oh, and for now, I'm thinking of leaving the head stock painted with no clear, just sanded fine line this:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ada16beee7.jpg The color is close enough, I think, and the lace wood will look completely different if I do the oil and dye. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c3862eb4f6.jpg |
The color with faint wood grain showing through looks like kitchen cabinets I've seen in the last few years.
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We used to do a lot of pickled frost in the late 80s when I refinished furniture. In going to do the next coat straight up white. And only a dash of thinner. Instead of the boiled linseed oil, I'm going with polymerized linseed and beeswax. It's called tried & true oil. Its a food safe oil meant for butchers blocks and cutting boards, but I did the fret holder and those neck rests with it and I love the feel of it. It's bleeding less tint when I touch it than last time, but the color is too dark.
I'm hoping that if I use white, let it sit for 45 minutes and then rub it back, I'll get my color. Then 2 more coats of straight oil in the following 2 days... And then I can convert my shop back to woodwork and start LC0002 |
Hey. I refinished furniture in the 80's too. Kitchen cabinets as well.
I like how the color is coming out, and am very curious to see it after you add some white. |
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The cabinets
https://goo.gl/images/7Hv9qJ |
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Thank you, sir, ma'am.[/hattip]
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I knew the pickled wood would interest you.
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:lol2:
ETA: It was the see-through bit that hooked me. It is a nice effect. |
Testing with the white. I tried at first with very little thinner, but the white pretty much wiped off completely. 20%or so gave better results. The white gets down in and brightens the non grain wood.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a65f6e1205.jpg I put a little on where the pick guard will cover https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0b3c4fb9f5.jpg And I liked it. So... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b37794a790.jpg It's very white. I'm a little scared https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e7d4d39c76.jpg |
Tee hee...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c7f58fce0b.jpg I'll write the date I finish it after the 1 |
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Be sure to copyright that color because The Chinese and con men will be trying to hussle counterfeit LC001s to the huge demand.
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It's difficult to photograph the color I'm seeing, actually. It's more blue than I can capture. Maybe video in the morning light.
The purple in the knot is pleasing https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...80db8638bc.jpg And I love the way the white stuck to the tiny light grains. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a8535551b8.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e32177b735.jpg It brightens the overall color, but there's some depth from the contrast. It looks pretty home made when I get up close, but I think after a couple more coats of straight oil, it will even out some of the blotchy areas and look better. I just hope I don't lose any of the current color when I do that. It's pretty perfect vs what I had in my head color wise. |
Wow, that is sharp.
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What color pickguard ya got in mind?
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FWIW, I'm a fan of that color gradient. Here's pics of my favorite piece of pottery at home to help visualize how some other colors may go with it. One pic on the shelf and another set down on the carpet for an interior view:
Attachment 66564 Attachment 66565 |
Interesting, I wonder how a cranberry pick-guard would look?
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I'm thinking white, or off-white.
Cranberry would pop, though. |
I have a white one that I've already modified to accept the deeper intrusion of the neck from the mistake I made with the scale length. I was looking at it last night, and I think I want to cut the lower horn off so it doesn't cover that pretty wood.
Maybe like this https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8a0576ca0a.jpg |
There are clear pickguards.
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Yah, but then you'd see inside the cavities. Next guitar may have back routed pick up cavities and controls so I can go without one.
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Mask off and frost (sandblast) the underside where it covers those areas, put window decals on (H-D?); or, even affix family photos there. Stay away from tacky stuff like hundred dollar bills.
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Or how about this?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f76f999bdb.jpg I like the creativity though. I've never seen a clear pick guard with the naughty bits occluded. That might look cool. This one has always been light turquoise with a white pick guard, though. Pick guards are pretty cheap. If the electronics didn't attach to them, it might be cool to have a few choices like phone cases. That could even be a selling point. Just have to design the guitar to mount electronics to the body independent of the pick guard... And maybe come up with a way to change it easily with the strings on. |
When I tested straight oil on the test spots, it made the blue darker, so I did this penultimate coat with oil and white dye only. No thinner. Let it sit for a good hour, then rubbed back. It gets greasy feeling and is hard to wipe. It softens and gets easier as you work at it. The pic in the last post was the dyed oil sitting on it. This is the result:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dbbe0bb559.jpg It's just a little richer https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...403a81dabd.jpg One final coat tomorrow night, then rest for few days, and then I can assemble the fucking thing already. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ffb28ac530.jpg |
The neck! Forgot all about oiling that up.
First coat! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a07edced71.jpg Wow. The lace wood really pops https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4b37706427.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9ebbd8f731.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...909c63bbee.jpg |
Why is it so red in the last picture?
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