Yup. I'm going to build an armored shell that will keep things from making the circuit.

What happens with most buffer accidents is that the buffer grabs the work piece and either throws it away from you (damages a wall or something) or the work piece goes all the way around and directly into you. If you build a metal cover for the back and top of the buffer then work pieces will get stuck/deflected in there. Worst case it fucks up the piece or the buffing wheel.

Now I just have to save enough for a welder and a couple of other misc tools so I can fabricate it. Nothing off the shelf will work for my setup.

Subcontract it, is my vote.

I saw a video of a guy sandblasting well-used epee parts to clean them up for a rebuild. He had a nice little plexiglass booth built around the blaster with heavy rubber (?) gloves mounted inside. I wonder if you could contain the whole unit to save your garage from shrapnel?

Or, you could use your backup hand.

I suppose his off-hand is getting stronger now that its attending Morningwood.

Perry, I had to remove hella rust from one of those Damascus blanks the knife fairy sent me and completely removed the pattern. I gave it a bath in muriatic acid and the pattern re-emerged but rather faintly. I suppose there is a special sauce they need to be dipped in. Any pro-tips?

Do you know the composition of the damascus? 15N20 and 1080+?

If the billet contains nickel (as in 15N20) use ferric chloride (usually available at Radio Shack for PCBs in 35% concentration). 4:1 water to etchant.

You have to start with the billet VERY clean. Use 409 or Windex. Then air dry it very well.

Then repeat the following process until the pattern is visible:
1. Hang in the etchant for 5 minutes. It should not be in contact with any surface in the
2. Neutralize the acid with windex or tri-sodium phosphate solution.
3. Scrub off the oxides with 2500 grit paper or #0000 steel wool.

I'm not really familiar with what to do with muriatic. I've heard 50/50 water to acid and 10:1 water to acid. Some people add hydrogen peroxide as a kicker to make it work faster (do not inhale this shit).

Hope that helps.

Thanks, will give it a try. The composition is a mystery.

How did the etch go F3?

I bet it was groovy!

hopefully it went smoothly and looks groovy...


ftfy

Can you make a rough estimate what it would cost to have a unique knife like that, made by a big name maker like White?

And I AM sorry about your finger.

That cuts me to the quick.

Damn, Perry. That is a sick knife. I'd bet 7-8 grand at least. I've got no idea how many hours are in it though.

The etching of the blank has been added to the job rotation. May be a few weeks yet before I can get to it. I stole a chunk of wood from your care package to make scales for it. Not to worry, there is still plenty left for you.

I should have a WIP pic to show here in a couple of days. I bought two dozen various clamps and have been able to do a bit of work with some thought.

I'm with F3 on the price. No less than $4-5k and as much as $8k. Maybe as high as $10-$12k depending on how much of a name John White is. (I don't keep up with the collector market.) It is a full-on art knife. It will not be used. Never. Okay, it might if you are very rich or you are just slicing scraps of paper.

John probably has at least 40 hours in that knife, and probably more like 60-80. Then there is time for the sheath maker and inlay/engraver. I don't have much idea how long those two things take, but I wouldn't be surprised if the total number of hours on this knife didn't top 120 hours.

You can easily bring the price down if you compromise on the blade (pattern, not quality), engraving and sheath. I bet you could get a nice usable d-guard bowie for about $1k. That would have a simple sheath, plain steel blade and stainless fittings.

Here's a load of cheap porn. Minimal story, mostly pictures:
http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showforum=2