Mechanical problem need intelligent suggestions on removing bearing
 

The washing machine broke a few days ago. I knew the bearings were going because they sounded like the hammers of hell.

Well, they went and in a big way. pics to follow.

It was easy getting the smaller bearing off because the inner race shattered, and the outer race was in a position to be easily knocked out. The larger bearing was pretty much annihilated leaving only the outer race which is pretty much flush with the housing it is set in. From the back there is about 1/16 of an inch lip. I can't torch it because the steel housing is set into the plastic drum of the washer. I've tried a punch and deadblow but that's not doing anything. When I worked on the bike shop we had a tool like this for removing bearing cups from the headset.

I think I will probably have to make one.

AutoZone may loan you the tool, if they have it.. You'll have to leave a deposit, but, you'll get it back when you return the tool unharmed.





Also, this: Your washing machine has a plastic washing drum? Never seen one.

Because of the great difference in the coefficient of expansion between the bearing race and plastic tub, I wouldn't be surprised if there was an adhesive involved.

There is a steel sleeve inset into the plastic, probably cast in place. The bearings are mounted into the steel sleeve.

It's the outer drum that the stainless steel inner drum spins inside.

Here's a video of it being disassembled. The title is misleading because the bearing is only sold with the drum, for $250. fuckers. I found a guy who sells the bearings and seals for $20. Frigidaire won't simple parts like the bearings or the spider alone. You have to get them attached to a very expensive drum. The cost of the part and paying a repairman is more than a new washer. Coincidence?

I doubt Autozone will have a tool to fit my washing machine. I'll caliper the bearing tomorrow and try to find a piece of pipe.

I had a somewhat similar experience with the washing machine a few months ago. Motor control board, not bearings, but. My initial thought was "fuck this noise I'll buy a cheap used one."

Ended up biting the bullet and buying the part on ebay. Turns out I would have had to take at least three doors off their hinges to get a new machine into the basement.

In the past few years ebay has gone pretty aggressively buyer-friendly. If the listing explicitly says the part will work for your washing machine, you can pretty much get a full refund if it doesn't.

This is the dude who sold me the motor control board. Apparently he set up shop just to take your money, and he knows exactly how much you'd pay for the new parts.

http://stores.ebay.com/FRONT-LOAD-BEARINGS

All that said, I can't imagine washing machines are a large enough market that they're making proprietary bearings. It might be worth spending half an hour to see if you can get the bearings thru Motion Industries or some other bearing house.

I've already bought the bearings and the set was about $20. My problem is removing the old one.

Ah, I think I see the problem. You have $20 bearings in hand that a seller is selling for $80 and you want to waste them by putting them into your washer.

That video is so complicated. It's like doing an engine rebuild.

Did you have to do all that stuff to get the plastic drum out, and now your trying to get the bearing out of the drum?

It's actually pretty easy and relatively quick since this is my second time doing this. Two years ago I had to replace the spider and noticed the bearings were a bit rusty but I really needed to put the machine back together as laundry was piling up so I smeared a bunch of grease on the bearings thinking I'd replace them down the road.

Sadder but wiser. It would have been relative cinch to pull them then.

Not sure about wasting them, UT unless you think I should resell them at a profit? Sounds like even more work than getting this fucker out.

If you're making your own, what about using a gear puller style tool?

Look here for an example of a DIY gear puller.


If I am imagining this right, you'd use the tool in your post to pound from the inside of the drum against the outer race to knock it out. A puller could be used on the outside of the drum and would use the screw force to pull from the outside to the outside. I see two advantages here. One, you can be a lot more delicate, precise, gentle, etc with a screw than you can with a hammer, in most cases. I'd hate to knock the hammer and crack the tub. Fuuuuuck that would be a hammer blow I'd want to take back. Of course, you're able to crack it with a screw tool too, but.. I think you'd creep up on the point of no return much more cautiously. Second, I'd sure like working on the outside of the drum rather than the inside of the drum. I'm not especially claustrophobic, but swinging a hammer inside that small well just has a lot of places to go wrong.

I could be imagining this all wrong too, but this is how I see it. Please keep us updated.

Or, any of this style, with the jaws reversed so they bite outwards toward the outer race. It looks like many of these have the jaws held on with a simple hex bolt and nut, undo it, reverse the orientation of the jaw, reinstall the bolt, voila.

If you can't find a washer the size of the bore chuck one up on a bolt in an electric drill and file or grind it.
On the other side a socket or jerry-rigged bridge.

If this is the bearing you are trying to remove:
Attachment 51397

I'll tell you what I picture.

An oil filter wrench.
Attachment 51398

It's the perfect size to go over the bearing and rest against the plastic tub.

Slide a threaded rod down the center and find a big freaking washer the same size as the bearing. Line the washer up with the bearing, put a nut on each end of the threaded rod, and tighten those nuts until the bearing pops out.
Attachment 51400

Feet, have you ever removed (or seen) the outer axle bearing from a GM-type rearend? I'm talking about the bearing just behind the brake backing plate. There is a pry tool made for this, looks like this (vaguely, I'm no artist)

Attachment 51409

for removing that race (they're cheap as dirt, too). You hook one of the two pointy ends on the back of the race, and between the pivoting head, and the lever-action, it'll pop a bearing right out.

I don't know if it would help in your situation, or not...

Glatt's rig looks good, if the oil filter wrench is stout enough. I'd worry it may collapse under pressure.

I'd also be concerned with the structural strength of the plastic part of the drum. If it's fairly solid/thick, prolly be ok.

Yeah, the oil wrench is the weak link.

On the other hand, it's less likely to ruin the plastic tub if it crumples before the tub.

And they do make cast aluminum oil wrenches that are a bit sturdier, but harder to find than these stamped steel ones.