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Old 06-19-2007, 08:18 PM   #1
Undertoad
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hot water heater died

Hey can I replace it myself?

I'm a pretty intelligent guy, and I solve system problems for a living. Is there some way I can get enough understanding of how to sweat pipes to comfortably install my own water heater?

I've called the pro, but I hate this. I understand the electrical side of things, and there are only two pipes: incoming cold water and outgoing hot water. how frickin' hard can it be? Cut the old pipe, somehow attach the new heater to the old pipe, WTF?
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:26 PM   #2
monster
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Yes. it's not that hard. They probably have a leaflet about it in your local DIY store.

Condolences on your loss.
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:26 PM   #3
BrianR
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Sweating pipes is easy really. I had to do it to fix up my house.

What you have to do is make sure the ends (about 1") are CLEAN and SHINY. Then take them and put them together, heat them until they are good and hot with a blowtorch, run in a little flux and then place the solder to the joint minus the torch. The solder will run in and fill the joint if you had it hot enough. If not nothing will happen. If the solder just runs off, the pipes are not clean enough; take it all apart, clean it again and then repeat.

It's not hard. You might want to practice on a piece of scrap first (use a vise if it's short) to get the feel of it. That's what I did.

Let me know if I can offer any more help.

Brian
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:29 PM   #4
Flint
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To sweat copper joints, it has to be dry inside. If not, the steam will fuck with the temperature. SO, if you test it, and it leaks, you have to blow the water out before you start over. That's right, you have to cut the pipe somewhere, wipe the end off, get down there, wrap your lips around it and blow. You open a water faucet, the next one in line, to let the water blow out.

You might think you can just pile that solder up on there, to make sure it won't leak. BUT, if you heat it up for too long you can sweat the flux out of the joint, actually causing it to form a leak. It's a balancing act, get the solder to follow the flux all the way around, and then get off right away.

And you can't put that solder on there until the flux is HOT enough, BUT if you heat it up too much it can sweat out, like I said.

ON THE PLUS SIDE: with a hot water heater, you won't be crammed down in a tight space; all the pipes should be exposed and easy to get to.
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:33 PM   #5
monster
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Wot! No painshop cartoon?

A practice joint or two () should help take care of such issues, though.
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:36 PM   #6
Flint
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One more thing: if your heater is in your garage, or at least on the ground floor, you're in good shape. They aren't easy to get into attics.
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There's a level of facility that everyone needs to accomplish, and from there
it's a matter of deciding for yourself how important ultra-facility is to your
expression. ... I found, like Joseph Campbell said, if you just follow whatever
gives you a little joy or excitement or awe, then you're on the right track.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Terry Bozzio
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:39 PM   #7
Undertoad
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My heater is on the ground floor of a slab construction, meaning that lots of my carpet is currently wet and possibly ruined.
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:42 PM   #8
busterb
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No unions in lines? No, that sucks.
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:48 PM   #9
Flint
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Get some $20 box fans under that carpet, dude. Srsly.
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There's a level of facility that everyone needs to accomplish, and from there
it's a matter of deciding for yourself how important ultra-facility is to your
expression. ... I found, like Joseph Campbell said, if you just follow whatever
gives you a little joy or excitement or awe, then you're on the right track.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Terry Bozzio
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:50 PM   #10
Griff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Undertoad View Post
My heater is on the ground floor of a slab construction, meaning that lots of my carpet is currently wet and possibly ruined.
Gaaaaahhhhhh!!!!!
What he said, get it dried up quick.
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:56 PM   #11
Flint
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At least you don't have warped, ruined, hardwood. Carpet can be saved.
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There's a level of facility that everyone needs to accomplish, and from there
it's a matter of deciding for yourself how important ultra-facility is to your
expression. ... I found, like Joseph Campbell said, if you just follow whatever
gives you a little joy or excitement or awe, then you're on the right track.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Terry Bozzio
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:58 PM   #12
jinx
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Maybe shop vac it first? Or just tear it up...

<- hates carpet
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:03 PM   #13
rigcranop
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As BrianR said, cleanliness of the pipe & the inside of the fitting is important. They make wire brushes for that purpose or you can use steel wool. Flint is also correct about too much heat. You need to heat evenly around the circumference of the fitting also. Shortly after the flux has melted you can test the heat by touching the solder to the joint. If it melts make a pass around the fitting. If you bend the solder into a semi-circle, you can get the side of the fitting that is away from you much easier.
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:35 PM   #14
lumberjim
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call my brother. he's a plumber. he'll do it on the cheap for you, plus he can get you a heater, too.
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:41 PM   #15
xoxoxoBruce
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Quote:
there are only two pipes: incoming cold water and outgoing hot water. how frickin' hard can it be?
It's not. If the replacement heater is identical it's even easier. But they seldom are, so it might take a couple fittings.

Yes, dry, clean, flux, and if the copper starts to discolor, it's too hot.
When you finish, don't touch it... unlike electronic soldering it takes time to cool. Solder goes through a plastic state between liquid and solid. If you move it during that transition you can ruin the joint and burn the hell out of your hand. It only takes a minute or so to be safe to move, but it's easy to forget how hot it is, because there's no visual clue.

Shop vac the rugs, turn up (down) the A/C, and fans, for the carpeting. A dehumidifier would help, too.
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