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09-09-2005, 10:37 PM | #1 |
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Songline for Wolf Creek Pass
You'll know you're almost home
when you reach that pull out in the road, the one where you put your chains on - or take them off. Immediately after is the last bridge that goes over the Rio Grande. The river is just a creek here, headwaters a few miles away 90 degrees due west at the Continental Divide, Big up country starts now! Gear down here and start to gather speed. Consider the laws of classical physics: Force equal mass times acceleration. The area under a curve - defined by topography and road. Vectors become a calculus of place. And in those days, that road was narrow - two lanes, no guardrails. The mountain demanded that physics turn to dance - A syncopated rhythm, improvisational jazz beat. Up ahead now, there's a semi, going far too slow. And I have a record to break. Besides, I never cared much for brakes. In the mountains, use your gears! Don't burn out going down. Don't brake going up. Swing out and around into that outer lane, tires skittering near edge - sharp-curve-drive-through-the-fear 1,000 foot drop off ! Pay it no mind. Keep your eyes where you want your tires to go. You are staying on the road! Then swing back in, smooth and easy. It was a riff done by girl and car, road and mountain - accelerating into those curves, not moving the way fear demanded. Fear would have you look over the edge, stand on your brakes, skid out of control, spin over and down. The trucker flashes his lights, blinking ON OFF! ON OFF! TWICE - in admiration - I lift one hand from the wheel, turn and blow him a kiss. But the road claimed my attention like a jealous lover. You learn to respect the pass, listen to its demands after 7 years of travel - sometimes in winter blizzards, sometimes in sudden washouts of summer rain. And don't forget the occasional avalanche thrown in just to see if you're paying attention. Wolf Creek always has its moods. And so do I. Today, I am in love with this pass, these mountains, these curves these spring wildflowers, which have come out just for me, waving, as I take those sharp turns effortlessly, flying, my small Subaru purring like a great cat, sure-footed hugging the road tight with the embrace of that lover, returned home after a long absence. A few days later, sitting in the faculty lounge, I'll boast to a friend - a professor and a librarian, as well as a philosopher and fellow poet but above all, my main competition in a serious contest - Who could do Wolf Creek - the Best! "Did the entire pass averaging 50 miles an hour," I'd say casually. He'd flung his coffee cup down with a sound like a gauntlet being flung! "Prove it!" So I did. Looked him straight in the eye, took a long drag on my cigarette and said "Let's go!" A couple of college teachers cutting class on a warm spring day, leaving behind our students like shadows in empty classrooms. My friend had given me the music for Wolf Creek - Jean Luc Ponte’s incredible jazz violin It happened to be in my cassette deck the day I drove the Wolf Creek Invitational. I hope in return, I gave him good company, talking poetry and the philosophy of road advisories - A couple of kids dragging the main strip, Highway 160 between Pagosa Springs and South Fork showing off how well WE BELONGED there, turning a little Subaru into a living thing that danced through the mountains. The real kids behind us were going back to the city in search of better things. We'd already found them, topping the summit of that pass - Wolf Creek! Elevation: ten thousand, eight hundred and sixty feet. Chain law no longer in effect! |
09-10-2005, 01:59 AM | #2 |
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And then the fire fell off the end of Earl's Cee-gar and dropped on down sorta rolled around and lit in the cuff of Earl's pants and burned a hole in his sock yeah it sorta set him right on fire ...
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09-11-2005, 09:15 PM | #3 |
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and Earl had to wake-up Leroy so he could see the damnest wreck in years.
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09-12-2005, 10:20 AM | #4 |
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nice! you captured it.
you have to have driven wolf creek pass a few times to feel what she's talking about. Even at the speed limit, if there's a little snow on the road, the uninitiated will leave pucker marks on your car seat. hey marichiko, did you ever drive over Yankee Boy Basin?
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09-12-2005, 10:33 AM | #5 | |
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Yankee Boy Basin? Of course! As well as Imogene, Land's End off the Colorado Plateau, and let's not forget the Devil's Staircase in Utah (although I did that one in a Toyota 4wd drive truck, not a Suburu). Thanks for the compliment. |
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09-12-2005, 11:20 AM | #6 |
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I mentioned YBB because my dad took us there in a station wagon one time when I was a kid. It remains in the top two terrifying driving experiences of my life.
I don't offroad intentionally -- it's usually because I'm trying to get to a hunting spot or because I'm lost You crazy kids and your jeeps. here are pics, so the rest can know what you're missing in your flatlands
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09-12-2005, 12:18 PM | #7 |
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Yankee Boy is a trip! That's where I learned the trick of keeping my eyes where I want the tires to go. Works like a charm. If I keep my eyes where I'm AFRAID my tires will go, damned if they don't start to wander in that direction!
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09-12-2005, 12:24 PM | #8 |
I think this line's mostly filler.
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In that second picture, it's funny - I'd be more freaked out by driving under that overhang than I would be driving at the base of the cliff. Even though the overhang protects you from rockslides, which are much more likely than the whole cliff breaking off.
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09-12-2005, 12:42 PM | #9 |
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The thing is, imagine being oncoming traffic. That's where you pray the snowmelt hasn't loosened the edge of the road significantly.
The wetness on the road in the first pic is urine. mari, got any wolf creek pics? all the ones I found on GIS didn't do it justice.
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09-12-2005, 01:42 PM | #10 |
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Wolf creek pass on the way to Montrose and ultimatly Gunni, CO. 11 pm after a heavy rain. Tired from 8 hours of driving from Phoenix. Deer standing in the shadows waiting to leap out at a moments notice. The road signs lie. When they say 25 mph curve, they acutally mean 15 mph. I came out of that drive with a migraine and finger impression permantantly imbedded in my steering wheel.
We opted for Red Mountain pass on the way home.
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09-12-2005, 04:48 PM | #11 | |
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The first in driving west down from the summit The second is the summit |
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09-12-2005, 04:59 PM | #12 |
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and then there's these:
going thru one of Wolf's tunnels in the rain rockslide onto highway (not uncommon!) Last edited by marichiko; 09-12-2005 at 05:20 PM. |
09-12-2005, 05:17 PM | #13 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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09-12-2005, 07:04 PM | #14 |
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I know the road, BigV. I've spent my share of time kicking around in the Pacific Northwest. One of my favorite memories is driving down coastal road 1 in Oregon a bit south of Coos Bay, if I remember correctly, and coming round a bend to quite literally encounter the ocean, 500 feet or so below. Apparently some unsually heavy rains had undercut the road, and away it went into the ocean and the highway department hadn't yet put up the barricades (must have just happened!) I managed to stop in time, pulled the car to the side of the road and climbed down to explore tide pools until the shaking stopped!
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09-14-2005, 02:00 AM | #15 |
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Memories! I drove over Wolf Creek Pass twice in one day, back in the winter of 1971 (sigh) I was living in Albuquerque then, and a ski instructor who I had a crush on had gone up there for the weekend. It seemed like a good idea at the time to "surprise" him by driving up myself, so I tossed some gear in my Gold Duster and took off for Colorado. Once I finally got to the pass I discovered that I should have been in a jeep before even thinking about getting over something that extreme. But I was crazy enough in those days to drive it anyway, and somehow I made it over. Thank God the plows had been through recently, because the reason my cute little ski instructor wanted to go up there was the 100-foot plus base on the runs, the deepest snow they had ever measured up to that time. Unfortunately, after getting a ways down the other side of the pass, I realized I had no idea where to go next. There was supposed to be a ski resort but I couldn't find it. No businesses where I could stop and ask, no signs, and it would start getting dark in an hour or two. So I eventually turned around and went back over the pass and home to Albuquerque, terrified of any part of the road which was in shadow because I knew it would freeze the minute there was no sun on it. Geez, what a day!
That was definitely before the "improvements" Marichiko is talking about, although I have not seen the road since. I have one picture which I took from the top, I remember it seemed like the mountain went straight down for 5,000 feet. Never saw anything even close to that frightening until I drove in the Canadian Rockies.
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