Milwaukee magnum hole shooter chuck
 

I had to remove the chuck from my drill and when I put it back on the scroll was so stiff I could only move it w/ the key. It used to behave normally.

It is a Jacobs 1/2 chuck. It seems as if some internal part is bent.

Anyone have any experience with this?

Bruce? Busterb? Happy monkey? BigV?

C'mon all you machine gurus, I know you're out there.

Thanks

WD-40 might help. I have a few that went south, helped some, some not.

Tried WD, and ran the chuck all the way in and out several times. gripping the chuck and driving it with the motor. It didn't really do anything.

Can a chuck itself be disassembled?

Not that I know of. Might try taping w/hammer lightly all around.

try this http://www.jacobschuck.com/support.asp
http://www.albrechtchucks.com/tech_i...nformation.cfm

footfootfoot:

I have that same chuck on my drill press. If I was in your situation, the place I would look first is at the alignment of the jaws. busterb's excellent link to jacobschuck led me to this conclusion. All three jaws have threads on them that correspond to one third of the circumference. If you check the jacobschuck link and look at the page called Service and Repair, you'll see a good diagram of what I'm talking about. If one of these jaws gets misaligned, it would feel like it was cross threaded (but with possibly only one third or two thirds being fouled up). That sounds like your description to me. So, one check would be to close the chuck fully and compare the tips of the jaws. Are they all the same height? Do they meet up squarely? If not, then you may have to disassemble, correct and reassemble your chuck.

FYI, here's a link I found that has 38% of the world's know reserves of talk about chucks. I fell asleep about 3/4 the way through. I did enjoy the story about the fella that repaired his seized diesel piston in Tahiti with dry ice and a propane torch, though. Entertaining and possibly useful, but I didn't see a bullseye answer to your question.

I would also like to know how your chuck comes off. Does it have a screw inside? Is it on a tapered shaft?

Thanks B and V.
I liked the jacobs site: "repairing a keyed chuck", easier and cheaper than repairing a keyed car ;)

I looked at it squarely in the jaw and said "Where do you come off Chuck?"

Actually that (joke) probably only works in person. Mine has a reverse threaded allen cap screw which holds the right threaded chuck to the arbor. After removing the screw the manual says stick the key or drift punch into one of the key holes and give it a sharp rap.

When that didn't work, I got out the "seal club" (BFH) and whaled the piss out of it. I suspect it was at this point where things went awry inside the chuck.

This whole project began when the thing started sounding like it was missing half of its teeth in the gears. I opened it up to see what the noise was all about and couldn't really see much wrong.

I pushed some of the grease back onto the gears and put it back together. It sounds much better at least.

I'll play chuck doc tomorrow and let you know how it works out.

I'm suspecting that closing the chuck jaws first maybe would have helped stabilize the internal bits.


onto 38% of the world's known reserves etc. (I love the precision of that number, miodest, yet bragging)

Yeah, hindsight. After removing the screw, close the chuck before smacking the key. ;)
Fortunately chucks are cheap.

Why not just buy a new chuck? They are sold separately. Last one I bought cost significantly less than a new drill and time lost fooling with the old chuck. Then I discovered the new chuck also held better.

Or spend a few more bucks and get a keyless chuck .

Well, a) the drill has only drilled a few dozen holes, but it is several years old.
b) I am pretty cheap
c) I like to tinker
d) it would take me 2 hours round trip to get to a store that carried replacement chucks. I could spend that time tinkering.
e) it's the principle.
f) this chuck holds fine, it just doesn't spin so freely

I'm thinkin' not just cheap but footfootfoot is cheapcheapcheap.

jk/nr

a pen of baby chickens isn't as cheapcheapcheap as me!

Then you have two choices. Either the chuck is gummed up somehow. This is solved maybe with a long soak in a solvent. WD-40 is a solvent - not a lubricant.

Second, the chuck is somehow bent. Therefore you must disassemble it and maybe file off the distorted surfaces.

Yes I am just as persistent. But only because I wanted to learn. There is nothing cheap in fixing the chuck. We don't fix things to save money. We fix things to learn.

BTW, if you do figure out how to get inside that chuck, then post back. I never had such luck. Only after I got a new chuck, did I learn the old chuck did not really hold that well.

The chuck is now in pieces and the problem was a threaded ring which pushes the jaws together and apart. The ring was split in half and so jammed when you tried to turn the chuck.

Maybe I'll try and order the part.

Foots , just order a DAMN chuck !!

I'm thinking he's starting to drag this project out a bit.

I can understand a certain satisfaction in getting something broken to work again. But a chuck? Don't you have chores to do or something? :eyebrow:

trolled the local pawnshop last night and passed several >20 drills, many of which were the characteristic red/black of the Milwaukee brand. I bet you can find a whole rig, for parts, for cheap at a pawnshop.

I used to check out local pawnshops, but the prices were always far higher than they should be, and the stuff was real beat up. I avoid pawnshops now.

price on tag is starting point for haggling. Sometimes they start the haggling. true story.

I used to do internal tech support for a pawn shop corporation. Roughly 99% of all tools in a pawn shop are stolen from worksites by laborers.

Really.

If they've got such solid evidence, they must get a buttload of tools, since offering stolen merchandise for sale is itself a crime, and the shelves are always well stocked. What do they do in the case that they suspect a tool is stolen? Decline to "loan" against it? Take it anyway?

They make it a habit not to suspect anything that isn't blatantly thrown in their faces. Plausible deniability. If someone walks in and says, "Yeah, I want to pawn this item that I stole--er, I mean, I want to pawn this item," then yes, they would decline to give any money for it, probably under the pretense that they already had too many on the shelves.

There's really no recourse to prove that a powertool is stolen anyway, it's not like the construction contractor is going to have the serial numbers of dozens of tools written down, or visit every pawnshop looking for them when one is stolen.

And there is that one percent, every once in awhile you do get a small-time contractor pawning his own tools for cash--but you can tell they're legit because they always come get them back. Things for sale in a pawnshop are by definition the things that people never came to get back.

I imagine it's like at Guitar Center, when I want to buy used gear and it's on "police hold"
- meaning they can't sell it to me for thirty days from when it comes in, just in case.

Same effect but a pawn shop has to hold things so the person that pawned it has a chance to reclaim it by paying the money back....plus interest. :cool:

It's what I work on when I sober up.

99% is a pretty rough figure. Had they been accurate I bet they could narrow that down to 99.5%;)

I actually have a new chuck in the drill and have been using it all summer. I still ahve the pieces on my bench and they look at me reproachfully. I thought you all were being kept awake at night wondering the outcome of this project.

Jeepers guys, I thought we could all bond over tools.:(

"please mr. pawnbroker, tell me what do those three balls mean on your wall? he said: 'that means, it's two to one, buddy, you never get your shit back outta here at all.'";)

Apologizing in advance
 

*cough*

Oh. My bad. Lessee.

I have a Sears 1/4" power drill that I've had for 25 years now. It still works great, but I'm thinking one of those keyless chucks sounds good. Anyone use one? Can I retrofit one to the Sears drill I've got?

Keyless chucks are basically amazing. I say this as a member of the younger generation (the generation born several years into the relationship you have with your Sears drill). They freaked me out a little bit at first, but once I got the hang of it I've never, ever been disappointed. They get the shit done, simply and effortlessly. And if all you have on hand is a single drill, but you want to swap between, say, drilling pilot holes dropping down screws, there's really nothing better. I'm sure there are downsides. But for general convenience of use, keyless is glorious.

Gin gimlet, right through my nose. Better than the other type of gimlet.

back in the day I enjoyed vodka gimlets. Not gin though. ....

I love 'em. That said, some are better than others. ;)

Good for the sinus eh?

The first one I used was artschool sculpture dept., dewalt yellow & black & beautiful. They had a nice setup of four or five chargers and five or six drills, batteries floating around. It wasn't a rich school, just moderately well-stocked and with a suitably hardass technician keeping the good shit from straying far from his toolroom.

The one I used Wednesday and earlier today is NYSCC machine shop property. I get the vague suspicion that, in between the ancient lathes and horizontal bandsaws -- monarch & three springs & other names I can't recall through this cloud of gin: chipped paint, steel & polish: wd-40, scotchbrite, & me... -- covers beat up but still cutting beautifully after twenty or thirty or fifty years, the shit that we have is quality. Quality if not current.

So, yeah; there are good and bad. I suspect that I have had the luxury of the good more often than not.

I was speaking of keyless chucks. 10 or 15 years ago I put a $200 keyless chuck on an $80 (brand new retail) piss-ant bench drill press. Made it pleasurable to use. Really should have them on all my drill presses and hand drills. :D

Keyless chucks ARE eggsalant , untill you over tighten them ,
Milwalke makes the BEST drill , not the cheapest but if'n you get a good'n they will last , and last , and LAST .
I have a 3/8' that I picked up in a pawn shop close to 20 years ago , VERRRRRY used , but you know what , that little bugger still runs as good as new ( I had a quality controll tech( at a Milwalke tool plant ) test the torque , and it still was with in spec for a new one )