Milwaukee magnum hole shooter chuck

[footfootfoot]

I had to remove the chuck from my drill and when I put it back on the scroll was so stiff I could only move it w/ the key. It used to behave normally.

It is a Jacobs 1/2 chuck. It seems as if some internal part is bent.

Anyone have any experience with this?

Bruce? Busterb? Happy monkey? BigV?

C'mon all you machine gurus, I know you're out there.

Thanks

[busterb]

WD-40 might help. I have a few that went south, helped some, some not.

[footfootfoot]

Tried WD, and ran the chuck all the way in and out several times. gripping the chuck and driving it with the motor. It didn't really do anything.

Can a chuck itself be disassembled?

[busterb]

Not that I know of. Might try taping w/hammer lightly all around.

[busterb]

try this http://www.jacobschuck.com/support.asp
http://www.albrechtchucks.com/tech_i...nformation.cfm

[BigV]

footfootfoot:

I have that same chuck on my drill press. If I was in your situation, the place I would look first is at the alignment of the jaws. busterb's excellent link to jacobschuck led me to this conclusion. All three jaws have threads on them that correspond to one third of the circumference. If you check the jacobschuck link and look at the page called Service and Repair, you'll see a good diagram of what I'm talking about. If one of these jaws gets misaligned, it would feel like it was cross threaded (but with possibly only one third or two thirds being fouled up). That sounds like your description to me. So, one check would be to close the chuck fully and compare the tips of the jaws. Are they all the same height? Do they meet up squarely? If not, then you may have to disassemble, correct and reassemble your chuck.

FYI, here's a link I found that has 38% of the world's know reserves of talk about chucks. I fell asleep about 3/4 the way through. I did enjoy the story about the fella that repaired his seized diesel piston in Tahiti with dry ice and a propane torch, though. Entertaining and possibly useful, but I didn't see a bullseye answer to your question.

I would also like to know how your chuck comes off. Does it have a screw inside? Is it on a tapered shaft?

[footfootfoot]

Thanks B and V.
I liked the jacobs site: "repairing a keyed chuck", easier and cheaper than repairing a keyed car

Originally Posted by bigv

I would also like to know how your chuck comes off. Does it have a screw inside? Is it on a tapered shaft?

I looked at it squarely in the jaw and said "Where do you come off Chuck?"

Actually that (joke) probably only works in person. Mine has a reverse threaded allen cap screw which holds the right threaded chuck to the arbor. After removing the screw the manual says stick the key or drift punch into one of the key holes and give it a sharp rap.

When that didn't work, I got out the "seal club" (BFH) and whaled the piss out of it. I suspect it was at this point where things went awry inside the chuck.

This whole project began when the thing started sounding like it was missing half of its teeth in the gears. I opened it up to see what the noise was all about and couldn't really see much wrong.

I pushed some of the grease back onto the gears and put it back together. It sounds much better at least.

I'll play chuck doc tomorrow and let you know how it works out.

I'm suspecting that closing the chuck jaws first maybe would have helped stabilize the internal bits.


onto 38% of the world's known reserves etc. (I love the precision of that number, miodest, yet bragging)

[xoxoxoBruce]

Yeah, hindsight. After removing the screw, close the chuck before smacking the key.
Fortunately chucks are cheap.

[tw]

Originally Posted by footfootfoot

I had to remove the chuck from my drill and when I put it back on the scroll was so stiff I could only move it w/ the key. It used to behave normally.

Why not just buy a new chuck? They are sold separately. Last one I bought cost significantly less than a new drill and time lost fooling with the old chuck. Then I discovered the new chuck also held better.

[footfootfoot]

Originally Posted by tw

Why not just buy a new chuck? They are sold separately. Last one I bought cost significantly less than a new drill and time lost fooling with the old chuck. Then I discovered the new chuck also held better.

Well, a) the drill has only drilled a few dozen holes, but it is several years old.
b) I am pretty cheap
c) I like to tinker
d) it would take me 2 hours round trip to get to a store that carried replacement chucks. I could spend that time tinkering.
e) it's the principle.
f) this chuck holds fine, it just doesn't spin so freely

[dar512]

Originally Posted by footfootfoot

b) I am pretty cheap

I'm thinkin' not just cheap but footfootfoot is cheapcheapcheap.

jk/nr

[tw]

Originally Posted by footfootfoot

Well, a) the drill has only drilled a few dozen holes, but it is several years old.
b) I am pretty cheap
c) I like to tinker
....
f) this chuck holds fine, it just doesn't spin so freely

Then you have two choices. Either the chuck is gummed up somehow. This is solved maybe with a long soak in a solvent. WD-40 is a solvent - not a lubricant.

Second, the chuck is somehow bent. Therefore you must disassemble it and maybe file off the distorted surfaces.

Yes I am just as persistent. But only because I wanted to learn. There is nothing cheap in fixing the chuck. We don't fix things to save money. We fix things to learn.

BTW, if you do figure out how to get inside that chuck, then post back. I never had such luck. Only after I got a new chuck, did I learn the old chuck did not really hold that well.

[zippyt]

Or spend a few more bucks and get a keyless chuck .

[footfootfoot]

a pen of baby chickens isn't as cheapcheapcheap as me!

[footfootfoot]

The chuck is now in pieces and the problem was a threaded ring which pushes the jaws together and apart. The ring was split in half and so jammed when you tried to turn the chuck.

Maybe I'll try and order the part.