It's dead Jim, PC help required, others may also opine.

[Beest]

Originally Posted by Undertoad

Maybe the notification LED is the power switch itself. It means different things if the lamp in the switch is off, blinking or steady amber, blinking or steady blue.

http://support.dell.com/support/edoc...g/MT480A01.pdf

Yes, the power button is an indicator light, blue solid or flashing for asleep or awake, never seen it be orange, as said now nothing.

System was purchase direct from Dell.

I measured the voltages I did by pulling the plug and putting the probes in that end, I'll see if I can slip them down the side to get a reading while still plugged in.

The only other light on the front in normal operation is the drive light.

[tw]

Originally Posted by Beest

I measured the voltages I did by pulling the plug and putting the probes in that end, I'll see if I can slip them down the side to get a reading while still plugged in.

Don't slip a probe. Saying again. Jam that probe inside the connector hole for each wire. Disconnect, disassemble, or remove nothing. Do not even move a connector. Jam that probe in with aggression. If the probe is bigger than the hole, then wrap a paper clip onto the probe and stick the paper clip end into the hole. But, if not clear before, absolutely do not move, partially move, disconnect, disassemble, or remove anything (but the already removed cover plate).

[Beest]

That was pretty straight forwardm ny $4 Harbor freight meter has noce pointy probes.
So with everything plugged in as in the wroking state

All the red wires I measured were 0.01V power button on or off,

all the single orange wires were 0.03V power button on/off

There is a single socket with both orange and brown wires in it, this read 0,01 power button on/off.

The grey wire was 0V power button on/off

The purple wire was 3.38 V but dropped to 3.37 when the power button was pressed.


The green wire, the first time I measures it at 2.23V power on or off, when I measured it again after looking at the others it was 3.21 then dropped to 3.19 when the power button was pressed

about an hour later, with the system left plugged in while I was on a call it is reading 3.24 power on/off, this small difference could well be variation in my chepa meter though I guess.

[tw]

Originally Posted by Beest

The purple wire was 3.38 V but dropped to 3.37 when the power button was pressed.

The green wire, the first time I measures it at 2.23V power on or off, when I measured it again after looking at the others it was 3.21 then dropped to 3.19 when the power button was pressed

OK. First, a PSU is actually multiple power supplies. Purple wire connects a special voltage constantly and only to certain motherboard functions. That voltage is why all computer work must be performed with the AC power cord disconnected. Otherwise damage can result. That LED on the motherboard was also making the same warning. Only work on a computer when that LED eventually dims out.

Purple wire voltage (5VSB) is defective. Therefore a power controller cannot power on the system. However, the question is why? Is the motherboard shorted or is the PSU purple wire power supply defective?

Well, you measured the purple wire when disconnected from the motherboard at 5.02 volts. That only says it may or may not be defective.

Subsystems powered by the purple wire. Anything that might 'wake up' the computer including the keyboard, modem, and NIC. Also the Front I/O Panel is powered by the purple wire. It can be temporary disconnected where it connects to the motherboard.

In your BIOS setup would be a more complete list of those devices that can wakeup the machine. So, with AC power cord disconnected, remove any peripheral (ie USB device, modem card, keyboard, etc) that might be excessively loading the purple wire 5VSB. Reconnect the PSU to AC mains. See if that purple wire voltage rises up to about 5 volts. If yes, one of those removed devices might be defective.

We clearly see the defect. 5VSB (purple wire) well below 5 volts means the power controller cannot tell its power supply to power on. And cannot even let the CPU execute (power controller tells the CPU when it can work).

The green wire is the power controller telling the PSU to power on. But your numbers on the green wire confirm defective numbers from the purple wire. Therefore the green wire cannot go to near zero volts when the power button is pressed. Therefore the main PSU power supply is never told to power on.

Some will recommend jumpering the green wire to any black wire with a paper clip. In your case, the PSU will probably power on. So they will conclude the PSU is good. They would be confused. The meter says 5VSB - the other supply - has failed. Their 'paper clip' test would never see the defect. An example of why so many get confused when using observation rather than using a meter. An example of why the meter so quickly cuts through confusion.

Now, moving on to fixing it. The fault could be on the motherboard side or inside the PSU. If removing those other devices does not restore 5VSB. Then let's try any other test. After removing the AC power cord, then disconnect all PSU power connections to the system. Connect another PSU to that 24 pin connector (where you made measurements). Any PSU (even an undersized one) that has a similar 24 pin connector is sufficient. The second PSU need not even be in the system (if its wire is long enough to connect to the 24 pins on the motherboard).

Connect that second PSU to AC mains. Measure the purple wire voltage. It must be greater than 4.87 volts. If yes, then the first PSU has a defective 5VSB. If no, then the defect is somewhere else in your system (probably on the motherboard).

A second possible test. Again with the PSU disconnected from the motherboard. Buy some 100 ohm resistors from Radio Shack (maybe $1). Stuff maybe all four resistor leads into the purple wire connection hole. Connect the other end of those resistors to any black wire hole. Connect the PSU to AC mains. Measure the purple wire to black wire voltage. If not 5.02 (as before), then the 5VSB supply is defective - without doubt. If it is about 5volts, then the 5VSB supply 'might' be good. This 'load test' is a best option.

Or a third option. Buy a new supply. Connect it. Confirm the new PSU can provide sufficient purple wire 5 volts. Let me know if you choose this third option so that details can be provided.

Apparently the main supply inside the PSU is good. But a tiny 5VSB supply has either failed or has been shorted out by something on or attached to the motherboard. (Shorting out any supply does not harm that supply.) Above should help define which of two is defective. And says why the blue front panel light stays on constant.

Appreciate how much information was in those few numbers.

[monster]

No light.......

[zippyt]

So its the power supply like i initially said ???

[Beest]

Originally Posted by zippyt

So its the power supply like i initially said ???

LOL, yeah , thought you'd get akick out of that.

[classicman]

lol

[zippyt]

get a bigger one , as in if it was a 250watt get a 450 , More POWER !!!!!!!
Oh and make sure it has Leds in it so it will look cool at nite !!!!

[zippyt]

new egg .com has some good prices

[Beest]

Originally Posted by zippyt

new egg .com has some good prices

Newegg was one of the first places I went, but they are not replacement slisted as compatable with my PC, I have to figure out which is the right one.

This one has 1000's of postive reviews and won some sort of award, but ahs a 20+4 pin connection, not 24 like mine, does this mean it won't fit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817153023

Newegg specs do include currents, so will ahve to look what's on my old one, guess I can take this out now.

This is the hot deal right now, still has a 20+4 pin connector.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...s-_-17-139-027

[glatt]

When I got a new power supply, I just took the old one down to Best Buy. I walked over to the help desk guys and asked if the one I had selected was compatible, and they let me open the box of the new one and compare the size and the connectors. There were a couple extra connectors I didn't need or use, but it works great.

I'm sure Newegg is cheaper.

[Beest]

I crowd sourced this on one of the big paintball boards, lot's of paintballers are also uber geeks.

Several recommendations for Corsair brand.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139026

The advantage to Best buy is you can see it's the same size with the holes in the right places.

[glatt]

Originally Posted by Beest

The advantage to Best buy is you can see it's the same size with the holes in the right places.

Exactly. You want the fan on the correct surface so it doesn't wind up pressed against a neighboring component that blocks off the airflow. You want the outlet and any switches to be lined up with the holes in your case, although you can cut holes into your case as needed.

I seem to remember paying $70 for mine. Your $45 is a better deal if it fits. But for me, paying an extra $25 to open the box before purchase and be certain it will work and will only require one trip to the store is not anything to look down your nose at. YMMV

[tw]

Originally Posted by Beest

The advantage to Best buy is you can see it's the same size with the holes in the right places.

Some disassemble computers to sell the parts. On Ebay, you may find the exact same supply for less money.