Uncle Fidel...

[xoxoxoBruce]

I imagine much of their indoctrination has been the fear of change. No matter how bad things are, they could always be worse. As those who remember pre-Castro, die off, the horrors of Batista's regime will continue to grow in folklore.

Cyclefrance, I realize the frustration of trying to present vacation pictures only to be vilified as trading with the enemy. Don't take it personally.

I'm sure some people will be disappointed it doesn't look worse, or feel you've glossed over the really bad stuff. But, most really do appreciate your candor and giving us a glimpse into Cuba as it really is.

Would a lot of tacky crap from walmart really improve their lives?

[Cyclefrance]

It''s quite strange being a visitor to Havana - the things that we evidence as tourist visitors as being bad stuff really come down to the grand architecture that is decaying and the general apperance of people and life being poor (no iPods, no fast food, no large stores, no neon lights or advertising, no cars jamming the roads - nothing we would associate with our own countries - it's all very low key). This is something that is reflected across the whole country - you just don't see anyone who looks substantially better off than anyone else. That's the effect of a communist doctrine, and it's alien to us.

But the people are essentially a happy people - or certainly appear so - and to us this seems at odds with their outward appearance. Certainly, there is evidence from the conversations we had with the few Cubans we met offering that opportunity, that they want to spread their wings and that the natural enthusiasm of the human being to explore and discover is sadly suppressed, but against this there is a sense of common security that you don't see in many parts of the world. When we went to Tropicana (next section) we came home around half past midnight. Driving through the streets of Havana we passed group after group of people happily enjoying the evening air - no sign of violence, drunkeness or crime - no police sirens, no ambulance sirens. It was unfamiliarly peaceful. I'm not saying this is right or wrong, but merely an observation and my feeling is that this is one of the elements that the Cubans fear could be lost should the country change and open its arms to a capitalist way of life again.

Is my assessment right or wrong? I just don't know enough about the country and its people yet to say whether this first impression is valid or misplaced. I'm just presenting you with what I saw and witnessed within the confines of a relatively short visit that was taken initially and primarily for reasons other than to understand the way the country ticked. If nothing else I hope my observations cause others to puzzle and to want to know what this country really is like under a regime that is one we have an instant distaste for and therefore we may be biased ourselves when trying to reach objective conclusions.

[Cyclefrance]

Tropicana
---

Last section of this mini travelogue, and the second trip we booked to Havana. Unexpectedly there was a German couple in the party of 14 to be picked up from the hotel. More surprising was the tour guide, Manuel, in his mid twenties, who spoke near perfect English – and fluent German as well!

His first time ever to Tropicana – we were to visit the oldest and the original venue (there are now 3 Tropicanas in Cuba). Asked why he had not been before, we should have known his obvious answer – Cubans could never afford to go to Tropicana. He was very apologetic and sought our approval to the fact that he had invited his girlfriend, Dagmar, to join him (the accountant and the Americana Hotel in Varadero). As she was absolutely stunning, every man on the coach gave their approval almost before Manuel had finished asking!

Tropicana lies on the west side of Havana, outside the city and originally in the countryside (although now the area is built up around it). An open air venue with all the glitz and glamour of a 1930’s nightclub. Like stepping back in time. You could almost imagine Edward G Robinson or James Cagney walking through the doors ahead of you.

Quite a show! Reminiscent of Moulin Rouge, but here it was mostly dancing and singing with just two specialist acts. The first a popular Cuban tenor and the second an acrobatic act.

I took photos, but I apologise in advance for the quality. My camera just isn’t up to long-distance flash photography, so all the pictures are blurred. But I think you will get the feel of what it was like even so.

First the opening number. As well as the main stage there were two small stages set either side amongst the branches of the trees. These produced the best shots. The opening number saw the dancing girls wearing chandeliers as head gear (and not much else) – that’s the first photo, while the second is of the acrobatic troupe who climbed and balanced with bare feet and toes clutching the side poles and cross bar:

[Cyclefrance]

Two more photos of the showgirls on the side stage performing other numbers - plenty of changes of costume throughout the evening:

[Cyclefrance]

... and one last one of the main stage - only really including it to convey to general appearance, as the quality of these shots was atrocious - this is the best of a very bad bunch:

[Cyclefrance]

As mentioned earlier, the journey home from Tropicana took us across Havana and was undertaken around half past midnight. The streets were alive with local people talking, walking and generally enjoying each other's company. Houses here were as sparce as anywhere - a good deal more solid in construction but by no means well looked after (meagre lighting, unglazed windows and veryu little in the way of furnishings). I guess te population just accepts this side of their lives and places most value on their friendships and the people they share their lives with both relatives and neighbours.

Two last observations to close this off.

First, we did come across an episode of violence, but it was between two of the hotel guests and not between any locals - in fact the locals (mainly in the form of the 6' 4" hotel chef) broke the fight up. Seems a Brit and a Canadina, both on the worse side of alcohol consumption went to go through a door at the same time. Neither would give way to the other... no need to say any more....

Second, I would have expected somewhere along the way to have encountered bitterness at the intrusion of comparatively wealthy visitors ingratiating themselves on their idsland and splashing their money around when all the locals hardly a penny to put together themselves. It never happened. No matter who we met and talked to they were friendly and seemed genuinely to appreciate the experience of having visitors to their country. Perhaps some of us have something to learn from the Cuban people in this respect...

I hope you have enjoyed the chance to learn a little about this seemingly strange (perhaps that should be 'unusual') country. For myself, I hope that I may have the opportunity to visit Cuba again and to extend my education of the place and its people - sooner rather than later.

[xoxoxoBruce]

My mother used to say, "We were dirt poor..... but so was everbody else."
No need to keep up with the Jones when everybody is equal.

Thanks Cyclefrance, you done good.

[wolf]

Shouldn't be surprising that someone in the Communist tourist industry speaks the language of a country that used to be half Commie ... actually, if they follow the playbook for any tourist location, they'll have staff who speak languages of each of their feeder countries. Much easier to book tours when you can promise someone to help you find the bathrooms and figure out the money.

Great pictures, and interesting experiences, CF. Thanks for sharing them with us!

[Cyclefrance]

Originally Posted by Griff

I love the Plaza del Catedral, the scale of the building is charming. Did you get inside?

Sorry, Griff, meant to answer this earlier. Regretfully could not go inside. May have been the wrong time of day. Check out the first of the two sites I've linked (repeat here) for a lot more pictures on Cuba as a whole. We did have access to a museum opposite which housed many items of furniture, 50% of which looked familiarly like English Victorian items.