Car question - Page 4

tw · 09-27-2010, 11:42 PM

Driving While under Stimulus

Oh Hobo. Let me play my oboe
Let me drive like I was blind.
If I am distracted. A charge redacted
Then I have achieved murder without a crime.

Oh walker. I am a talker.
Let me drive my mobile cell.
If I hit right. And can take flight.
Then more notches and compacted swine.

Clodfobble · 09-03-2011, 04:14 PM

I have a car issue.

When I start the engine, a fair amount of water suddenly drips out from underneath (say, 1/4 cup or so.) Almost underneath the driver's seat, but a little more towards the middle. It is definitely not dripping before the engine starts, and it is definitely water and not some other fluid. Over the next 30 seconds to a minute, it gradually stops. This happens every time I start the car, and only started maybe a week ago.

What's going on? And please tell me it is not an expensive thing to fix.

classicman · 09-03-2011, 06:07 PM

sounds to me like the condensation from the A/C is building up and pushed out when the engine starts. Is the A/C or fan ON when you start the car?
There is a little drain "hose" under the dash somewhere that is probably leaking because it came off or dryrotted or or or. I had it happen in my Nissan on the passenger side. It must have been accidentally kicked off at one point and cost a total of $0 to fix.

Clodfobble · 09-03-2011, 08:51 PM

Yes, the A/C is always left on because it's a thousand degrees here.

I knew condensation could drip, but I didn't realize it could build up in some reservoir. Is it something that really matters? Could I (make Mr. Clod) get under there and reattach an obvious hose, or is it a more internal thing?

classicman · 09-03-2011, 10:10 PM

It is probably (if this is what it is) very easy to fix and Mr. Clod should be able to do it no problem. If the male end where the hose connects is broken it could be another matter.
If the hose just got knocked off, its nothing more than slipping it back on.
I have a feeling one of my kids, when they were younger like yours, accidentally knocked it loose. Have him take a look and see where its dripping from when you start the car.

Oh and I won't do the need additional data, facts, info post yet.

Pete Zicato · 09-06-2011, 12:21 PM

The cartalk guys also talk about that hose getting clogged and the reservoir overflowing.

glatt · 09-06-2011, 12:58 PM

So it's just water, right? If it leaks in the wrong place, will it even cause rust or mildew in a car in drought stricken arid Texas? You would think it would just evaporate quickly. Why fix it at all?

HungLikeJesus · 09-06-2011, 11:11 PM

Keep a bottle to collect the water. You might need it later.

classicman · 09-06-2011, 11:17 PM

Good point, Pete.

glatt · 11-08-2011, 03:02 PM

I've got a car question.

Rough idle.
The car is old. After it warms up from driving around, when I stop at a light and push in the clutch, or shift out of gear, it goes into an idle where it's pretty rough. The CDs in the door pocket start to rattle against each other. The hard roof liner starts to vibrate against the roof. If I apply a little pressure to the accelerator and ever so slightly rev the engine, the vibrations and roughness go away. It does not have a rough idle when cold. (I understand the computer sends different signals to the engine when it is still cold than when it has warmed up and the fuel mixture is different then.) It is not rough when driving. This has been going on for a couple months.

How to improve? We had new spark plugs and wires (and presumably distributor cap?) replaced about 30K miles ago as part of a tune up done then, so they should still be good.

It has 115K miles now. We did that first (only) tune up at about 85K.

I could just go replacing stuff, but would like to know where a good place to start is. I was thinking fuel injectors. We've never done anything with those. Are clogged fuel injectors likely to cause symptoms only during idle?

Oh, this is a 1996 Geo Prizm LSI with the 1.6 liter engine and manual transmission. 115K miles. Starts fine. Drives fine. But idle is rough. Never stalls.

sexobon · 11-08-2011, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glatt

I've got a car question.

Rough idle. ... After it warms up from driving around ... it goes into an idle where it's pretty rough. ... If I apply a little pressure to the accelerator and ever so slightly rev the engine, the vibrations and roughness go away. It does not have a rough idle when cold. ... It is not rough when driving. This has been going on for a couple months.

That's an unusual combination of symptoms; but, I've experienced something like it. In my case, I noticed that it initially occurred during periods of high humidity and was exacerbated by cold-wet weather. It was a minor distraction that I put off having checked out for a few months until the condition began rapidly deteriorating to nearly disabling the vehicle. It turned out to be a faulty oxygen sensor which I had replaced under warranty.

footfootfoot · 11-08-2011, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glatt

I've got a car question.

Rough idle.
The car is old. After it warms up from driving around, when I stop at a light and push in the clutch, or shift out of gear, it goes into an idle where it's pretty rough. The CDs in the door pocket start to rattle against each other. The hard roof liner starts to vibrate against the roof. If I apply a little pressure to the accelerator and ever so slightly rev the engine, the vibrations and roughness go away. It does not have a rough idle when cold. (I understand the computer sends different signals to the engine when it is still cold than when it has warmed up and the fuel mixture is different then.) It is not rough when driving. This has been going on for a couple months.

How to improve? We had new spark plugs and wires (and presumably distributor cap?) replaced about 30K miles ago as part of a tune up done then, so they should still be good.

It has 115K miles now. We did that first (only) tune up at about 85K.

I could just go replacing stuff, but would like to know where a good place to start is. I was thinking fuel injectors. We've never done anything with those. Are clogged fuel injectors likely to cause symptoms only during idle?

Oh, this is a 1996 Geo Prizm LSI with the 1.6 liter engine and manual transmission. 115K miles. Starts fine. Drives fine. But idle is rough. Never stalls.

Glatt, good news! That is a super easy fix.

Look to the right of the steering wheel for one of these. Twist the knob on the Left CLOCKWISE until the sound of the rough idling disappears. If you turn it all the way clockwise and you still hear the rough idle you may need to get a new one.

Beest · 11-08-2011, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by footfootfoot

Glatt, good news! That is a super easy fix.

Look to the right of the steering wheel for one of these. Twist the knob on the Left CLOCKWISE until the sound of the rough idling disappears. If you turn it all the way clockwise and you still hear the rough idle you may need to get a new one.

When we were on our last day of driving to Yellowstone, we were about 20 miles out in farmland when a loud hiss arose form the front of the car, Oh Crap!, is it overheating? gauge says not, just the AC wheezing ? then it dies away, weird we drive on.
About ten minutes later it starts again getting louder and softer, sounds right at the front, like it's coming out of the heating vents. After moving my hands around covering things up to see what changes the sound I notice the radio is on, but there are no stations out there it's just the static coming and going

glatt · 11-09-2011, 07:35 AM

It is fuel injected.

So in addition to hooking it up to a code reader, the shop manual says to:
- check oxygen sensor
- check throttle position sensor
- check engine coolant temperature sensor
- check MAP sensor
- check if problem occurs when engine is running Rich or Lean (I think it's lean when it's hot, which it is)
- check evaporative emission (EVAP) control system
- check fuel injectors
- check fuel pressure
- check ignition voltage output
- check spark plugs
- check spark plug cables
- check ignition timing
- check for vacuum leaks
- check the ECM/PCM grounds
- check ECM/PCM for A/C signal
- check EGR
- check battery cables
- check A/C refrigerant pressure
- check PCV valve
- check for broken engine mounts
- check valve timing
- check low compression
- check bent push rods
- check worn rocker arms
- check valve springs
- check camshaft lobes

Holy crap. I can rule out about half this stuff, because it doesn't make the metal clanking sound of worn valves or bent push rods or anything like that. And it has nothing to do with the A/C being turned on. And we just replaced the PCV valve. The spark plugs and distributor cap are not as new as I thought they were (they are about 30K miles old,) but the cables look good and clean on the outside.

HungLikeJesus · 11-08-2011, 04:12 PM

OH! OH! Is the check engine light on?

09-03-2011, 04:14 PM	#2
Clodfobble UNDER CONDITIONAL MITIGATION Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 20,012	I have a car issue. When I start the engine, a fair amount of water suddenly drips out from underneath (say, 1/4 cup or so.) Almost underneath the driver's seat, but a little more towards the middle. It is definitely not dripping before the engine starts, and it is definitely water and not some other fluid. Over the next 30 seconds to a minute, it gradually stops. This happens every time I start the car, and only started maybe a week ago. What's going on? And please tell me it is not an expensive thing to fix. __________________ My book My other book My spirit animal

09-03-2011, 06:07 PM	#3
classicman barely disguised asshole, keeper of all that is holy. Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 23,401	sounds to me like the condensation from the A/C is building up and pushed out when the engine starts. Is the A/C or fan ON when you start the car? There is a little drain "hose" under the dash somewhere that is probably leaking because it came off or dryrotted or or or. I had it happen in my Nissan on the passenger side. It must have been accidentally kicked off at one point and cost a total of $0 to fix. __________________ "like strapping a pillow on a bull in a china shop" Bullitt

09-03-2011, 08:51 PM	#4
Clodfobble UNDER CONDITIONAL MITIGATION Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 20,012	Yes, the A/C is always left on because it's a thousand degrees here. I knew condensation could drip, but I didn't realize it could build up in some reservoir. Is it something that really matters? Could I (make Mr. Clod) get under there and reattach an obvious hose, or is it a more internal thing? __________________ My book My other book My spirit animal

09-03-2011, 10:10 PM	#5
classicman barely disguised asshole, keeper of all that is holy. Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 23,401	It is probably (if this is what it is) very easy to fix and Mr. Clod should be able to do it no problem. If the male end where the hose connects is broken it could be another matter. If the hose just got knocked off, its nothing more than slipping it back on. I have a feeling one of my kids, when they were younger like yours, accidentally knocked it loose. Have him take a look and see where its dripping from when you start the car. Oh and I won't do the need additional data, facts, info post yet. __________________ "like strapping a pillow on a bull in a china shop" Bullitt

09-06-2011, 12:21 PM	#6
Pete Zicato Turns out my CRS is a symptom of TMB. Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago suburbs Posts: 2,916	The cartalk guys also talk about that hose getting clogged and the reservoir overflowing. __________________ Talk nerdy to me.

09-27-2010, 11:42 PM	#1
tw Read? I only know how to write. Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 11,933	Driving While under Stimulus Oh Hobo. Let me play my oboe Let me drive like I was blind. If I am distracted. A charge redacted Then I have achieved murder without a crime. Oh walker. I am a talker. Let me drive my mobile cell. If I hit right. And can take flight. Then more notches and compacted swine.

09-06-2011, 12:58 PM	#7
glatt ™ Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 27,717	So it's just water, right? If it leaks in the wrong place, will it even cause rust or mildew in a car in drought stricken arid Texas? You would think it would just evaporate quickly. Why fix it at all?

09-06-2011, 11:11 PM	#8
HungLikeJesus Only looks like a disaster tourist Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: above 7,000 feet Posts: 7,208	Keep a bottle to collect the water. You might need it later. __________________ Keep Your Bodies Off My Lawn SteveDallas's Random Thread Picker.

09-06-2011, 11:17 PM	#9
classicman barely disguised asshole, keeper of all that is holy. Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 23,401	Good point, Pete. __________________ "like strapping a pillow on a bull in a china shop" Bullitt

11-08-2011, 03:02 PM	#10
glatt ™ Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 27,717	I've got a car question. Rough idle. The car is old. After it warms up from driving around, when I stop at a light and push in the clutch, or shift out of gear, it goes into an idle where it's pretty rough. The CDs in the door pocket start to rattle against each other. The hard roof liner starts to vibrate against the roof. If I apply a little pressure to the accelerator and ever so slightly rev the engine, the vibrations and roughness go away. It does not have a rough idle when cold. (I understand the computer sends different signals to the engine when it is still cold than when it has warmed up and the fuel mixture is different then.) It is not rough when driving. This has been going on for a couple months. How to improve? We had new spark plugs and wires (and presumably distributor cap?) replaced about 30K miles ago as part of a tune up done then, so they should still be good. It has 115K miles now. We did that first (only) tune up at about 85K. I could just go replacing stuff, but would like to know where a good place to start is. I was thinking fuel injectors. We've never done anything with those. Are clogged fuel injectors likely to cause symptoms only during idle? Oh, this is a 1996 Geo Prizm LSI with the 1.6 liter engine and manual transmission. 115K miles. Starts fine. Drives fine. But idle is rough. Never stalls.

11-09-2011, 07:35 AM	#14
glatt ™ Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 27,717	It is fuel injected. So in addition to hooking it up to a code reader, the shop manual says to: - check oxygen sensor - check throttle position sensor - check engine coolant temperature sensor - check MAP sensor - check if problem occurs when engine is running Rich or Lean (I think it's lean when it's hot, which it is) - check evaporative emission (EVAP) control system - check fuel injectors - check fuel pressure - check ignition voltage output - check spark plugs - check spark plug cables - check ignition timing - check for vacuum leaks - check the ECM/PCM grounds - check ECM/PCM for A/C signal - check EGR - check battery cables - check A/C refrigerant pressure - check PCV valve - check for broken engine mounts - check valve timing - check low compression - check bent push rods - check worn rocker arms - check valve springs - check camshaft lobes Holy crap. I can rule out about half this stuff, because it doesn't make the metal clanking sound of worn valves or bent push rods or anything like that. And it has nothing to do with the A/C being turned on. And we just replaced the PCV valve. The spark plugs and distributor cap are not as new as I thought they were (they are about 30K miles old,) but the cables look good and clean on the outside. Last edited by glatt; 11-09-2011 at 07:42 AM.

11-08-2011, 04:12 PM	#15
HungLikeJesus Only looks like a disaster tourist Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: above 7,000 feet Posts: 7,208	OH! OH! Is the check engine light on? __________________ Keep Your Bodies Off My Lawn SteveDallas's Random Thread Picker.

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