deck

[jimhelm]

here's the bolt, washers ( the small one goes into the countersunk hole ), the drill bits and the knickety knickety nut. and the other side. long bolt. the girders are 3" each, and the post is 5 1/2"

[jimhelm]

once the girder is attached to the posts, I was able to start stringing the joists. You can see that it got dark on me... I worked form 1pm till 9:30 on Weds. Had a really fun time. It's so much better when you can SEE progress.

[classicman]

Lookin great Jim.

[HungLikeJesus]

When it's finished, how much space will there be between the top of the deck and the bottom of the door?

[classicman]

I think he said earlier that the deck boards will almost match the bottom of the french doors. (too lazy to look for it though)

[classicman]

Just for you HLJ - see this post.

[Undertoad]

Let me know when you're ready to attack a second floor project. Advanced level of difficulty.

[HungLikeJesus]

Originally Posted by classicman

Just for you HLJ - see this post.

Very interesting - thanks.

[classicman]

Yeh, I like the way he did it as well. I don't remember how mine was done, but it wasn't that fancy/complex...

[jimhelm]

Originally Posted by HungLikeJesus

When it's finished, how much space will there be between the top of the deck and the bottom of the door?

Probably about 3/4 to an inch. I will most likely put a sill there. I did that at my house.

[jimhelm]

I've gotta get flashing to put up under the siding and the decking.

[footfootfoot]

Dude, I hate to bum your stone but if that's Pressure Treated wood you need to use double dipped galvanized or that shit's coming down within the decade.

Sorry Bro.

Originally Posted by http://www.strongtie.com

Are these alternative products more corrosive than CCA-C?

Testing has indicated that some of the alternative products are more corrosive to steel and some protective coatings applied over steel than Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA-C). Contact the treated wood chemical supplier for more information and see the Preservative Treated Wood Technical Bulletin (PDF).
What metals and protective coatings does the Pressure Treated Wood Industry recommend for use with these newer products?

Hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel fasteners, anchors and hardware are recommended by the Pressure Treated Wood Industry for use with treated wood. This has been the position of this industry for years and their position has not changed with the transition to the alternative copper-based products. In the past this industry did not address the required levels of galvanizing, however most of those in the industry now provide information regarding the minimum level of galvanizing that should be used.
The thicker the galvanized coating the longer the expected service life of the fastener, connector, anchor, or other hardware will be.

Electroplated / electro galvanized and mechanically galvanized coatings should not be considered to be hot-dip galvanized. (Class 55, or higher, mechanical galvanizing provides galvanizing equivalent to the hot-dip galvanizing used on connectors and fasteners. Ref. ASTM B695 for additional information.)

It is also worth noting that the galvanized coating thickness varies depending on the galvanizing process used. Remember, the thicker the galvanized coating, the longer the expected service life of the steel will be.

Refer to the different chemical manufacturers and/or treaters as well for their recommendations. A list of trade names is included at the bottom of this page.

Are all stainless steels acceptable for use with pressure-treated wood?

All stainless steels may not be acceptable for use with pressure treated wood. Testing has shown that Types 304 and 316 stainless steels perform very well with CCA-C, ACQ-C, ACQ-D Carbonate, CBA-A, and CA-B treated woods. Type 316 stainless steel contains slightly more nickel than other grades, plus 2-4% molybdenum, giving it better corrosion resistance in high chloride environments prone to cause pitting such as environments exposed to sea water.
What is hot-dip galvanizing?

Hot-dip galvanizing is a process of providing a protective coating (zinc) over bare steel. The bare steel is cleaned, pickled, fluxed, then dipped in a molten bath of zinc and allowed to cool prior to inspection and shipping. Additional information is available at www.galvinfo.com. Some anchors and fasteners can be hot-dip galvanized. Steel connectors can be hot-dip galvanized (See below: “What is the difference between Simpson's Hot-Dip Galvanized (HDG) products and products that are hot-dip galvanized after fabrication?” for additional information.)
Terms such as G90 & G185 reflect the galvanized coating thickness that meet the ASTM A653 specification for sheet steel.

What is Mechanical Galvanizing?

Mechanical galvanizing is a process of providing a protective coating (zinc) over bare steel. The bare steel is cleaned and loaded into a tumbler containing non-metallic impact beads and zinc powder. As the tumbler is spun, the zinc powder mechanically adheres to the parts. The zinc coating has “good” durability, but has less abrasion resistance than hot-dip galvanized zinc coatings since it does not metalurgically bond with the steel. Some anchors and fasteners can be mechanically galvanized.

Originally Posted by p.2 of [url

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/new-pressure-treated-wood-decks.aspx]Use[/url] corrosion-resistant nails and joist hangers
Unfortunately, boosting the copper content in lumber not only makes the new pressure-treated wood more expensive than the old, but it also makes the new stuff significantly more corrosive -- 5 times more to common steel, according to American Wood Preservers Association (AWPA) test results.

Most people already know that they should use corrosion-resistant nails, screws, and connectors when they're building with pressure-treated wood. But now the stakes are higher. Due to the high risk of galvanic reaction between the copper-impregnated wood and any dissimilar metals, fasteners and flashings should be stainless steel and copper whenever possible. At the very least, you need to use better grades of galvanized fasteners. Unfortunately, the fastener grades aren't always marked on the boxes of nails and screws.

Electrogalvanized stock is rated with a class scale that ranges from 5 to 110. Hot-dipped galvanization ratings are based on the actual weight of the coating. For example, a G-60 rating means that there's 0.60 oz. of zinc per sq. ft. of metal.

The G-60 and G-90 hot-dipped coatings are what we've been using until now. But engineers suggest stepping up to the heavier G-185 coatings for hot-dipped galvanized products, and they recommend class ratings of 40 or above when using electrogalvanized fasteners, such as expansion bolts.

Currently, G-185 is the best galvanized protection that you can buy. Simpson's ZMax line and USP Structural Connectors' Triple Zinc line both are rated at G-185. As for nails and screws, many of the composite coatings that are currently available are still good for the new treatments (see www.osmose.comto read about fastener recommendations), but you should verify this by carefully reading the label.

Perhaps the most important point to keep in mind relating to copper-based wood treatments and galvanic corrosion is to avoid aluminum flashings altogether. Aluminum corrodes quickly in the presence of high copper concentrations.

[Griff]

fauuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.

[jimhelm]

Actually, that's good timing. The guy that nailed the joists in used interior nails, so we are removing them. We just bought galvanized nails but have not gone back thru and nailed yet. They didn't have stainless nails at the home despot. Not sure if the nails we got are double dipped, but I doubt it. I guess I will order some stainless nails tomorrow.

[jimhelm]

And will make sure to get copper flashing...