Brake job

[plthijinx]

Originally Posted by Undertoad

Isn't that term "bearing packer" derogatory? They're people too, y'know.

[plthijinx]

da bearing packer!

[plthijinx]

oh and tw does make very good points. what is the beast you're working on anyway? year make and model...

[footfootfoot]

year/make and model, is that like a/s/l? for auto mechanics?

It's a 2004 Hyundai Sonata.

[plthijinx]

i'm pressed for time to get ready for work. hope THIS helps! looks pretty simple.

[xoxoxoBruce]

Originally Posted by plthijinx

i'm pressed for time to get ready for work. hope THIS helps! looks pretty simple.

That tells me he doesn't need the packer, the disc is separate from the hub.

[plthijinx]

this may help to: video

also depending on how the rotor is mounted, in my case with a nut and cotter pin, make sure that when replacing the nut you only put it on hand tight. you want the rotor to spin somewhat freely. good luck! off to the go kart killing fields now.

[footfootfoot]

brake job is done. Thanks to everyone. My new neighbor who happens to love working on cars came over and we did the pads, the rotors will wait for spring. The two (as in R and L) lower pins that the caliper rides on were frozen and required a torch, some deep creep, and a BFH to loosen. When they came off it all went back together quickly.

[tw]

Originally Posted by footfootfoot

the rotors will wait for spring.

Hopefully you measured the rotors. Determined if they can be turned down or must be replaced. If replaced, take time to find replacements in a junk yard, internet, etc.

Those gouges, as described, imply you will have to replace those pads when new rotors are installed.

What were the pads? $70?

[xoxoxoBruce]

Those rotors don't get turned, they're throw aways, cheaper than the pads.
The grooves in the old rotors will leave small ridges on the pads, which will wear down quickly on new rotors.

[footfootfoot]

Originally Posted by tw

Hopefully you measured the rotors. Determined if they can be turned down or must be replaced. If replaced, take time to find replacements in a junk yard, internet, etc.

Those gouges, as described, imply you will have to replace those pads when new rotors are installed.

What were the pads? $70?

$25/set

[tw]

Originally Posted by footfootfoot

$25/set

You got the cheap (low mileage) ones. Good. Since with gouges on the rotor, those brake pads must not be used when the rotor is replaced or turned down. (By set, you meant all four?).

[plthijinx]

Originally Posted by footfootfoot

brake job is done. Thanks to everyone. My new neighbor who happens to love working on cars came over and we did the pads, the rotors will wait for spring. The two (as in R and L) lower pins that the caliper rides on were frozen and required a torch, some deep creep, and a BFH to loosen. When they came off it all went back together quickly.

man i hate using a torch but they're extremely useful. had to use one on my exhaust manifold nuts to free them so i could drop the exhaust to change my transmission. that hot ass flame in that tight area with all that other crap around? was afraid i would burn something else and cause more damage (spend more dough).

congrats on a job well done! hope you had a victory beer!

[footfootfoot]

Originally Posted by plthijinx

man i hate using a torch but they're extremely useful. had to use one on my exhaust manifold nuts to free them so i could drop the exhaust to change my transmission. that hot ass flame in that tight area with all that other crap around? was afraid i would burn something else and cause more damage (spend more dough).

congrats on a job well done! hope you had a victory beer!

Oh yes!

[glatt]

Well done!